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I was told the fuel (including the tank) gets very hot on TD5's, there is even a fuel cooler that uses coolant from the engine, so i wouldnt worry about the fuel filter getting hot.

If youve done it before and have the right tools (extensions for sockets etc for awkward to get at bolts) then it will probably take an hour or so to get off, then you send it to the shop to be tested/skimmed, pick up next day and maybe 2 or 3 hours to put back together, oh the gasket is...

oh btw its not all that bad, i had a core plug go on the rear of the engine, below the head. Had to take engine out to fix it - takes about a minute to swap core plug :(

Pressure test and skim will be about 80 quid or so to start with, then add a few hours garage labour, probably 200 quid or more. Bleed the system with the little cap on top of thermostat housing with expansion cap on. once that housing is full with engine running its full. put that on and take...

Not sure if people realise but this is a disco2 we are talking about. If it is oil from the axle then it MIGHT be the O ring on the hub.

if it was clutch fork when you pump the pedal it will go solid and then just be solid. Did you fit the slave cylinder yourself? If so make sure the bleed screw is above the pipe (not upside down). If the bleed screw is underneath then it wont really bleed well. Good luck, ignore the idiots.

I dont know much about td5s im afraid but you say the head was skimmed then it sounded like a bag of nails, 2 thoughts: I had a 300 that sounded like death for a long long time but it pulled ok and didnt smoke - it was a washer rattling about with a loose crank shaft bolt! Tightened it up and...

This was posted by OP

This was posted by OP.

i had a prob where longer it was left the longer it took to start and it usually would go vroom then die instantly with first turn of key, then take some cranking. Turned out to be split leak off pipe on one of injectors presumably letting diesel run back down the line and letting air in when...

Theyll just start ignoring your posts soon cos you post anything and everything with no actual proof that anything dodgy is going on.

POST COPIED FROM LANDROVERNET.COM: Hi all, went into B&Q today for some small bore poly pipe and when I came out I found 3 young Guys standing around my Disco. As I approached the old girl one of them asked me if I wanted to sell it. I stated No but he insisted I consider selling it as he...

scratches shouldnt look too bad on it, my brother has a matt black landy and even after the usual offroad tree/bush scraping it looks ok. Your disco looks mint especially with them wheels.

Think mine was number 2 or 3. The burned out piston sounded like this, are you getting smoke? Are you sure its not a tap instead of a knock? Try opening filler cap and see if its ticking from inside there, i hope it is cos thats a lot easier to fix.

Listen to it with the bonnet up and take the oil filler cap off. If its obviously coming from just under there it could well be the tappets and just need adjustment. Ive also had a 300 with more of a knock, and that turned out to be one of the pistons just about burned out.

Rip the carpet up in the boot and if its not too bad cover it in some oil (thats what i do and mine has been ok for the two years ive owned it). The cills need coating with something but i havent got round to it (always something else to do!) which brings me to my next point, if you google...

not familiar with d2's but check steering uj's

you need the track rod ends, not the rods, although if you do heavy offroading then them rods are brilliant.

track rod ends are nothing special are they??? I thought they were available from auto spare shops??? In fact i think they are!! Even at 25/30 quid per hour labour charge from a garage, the track rod should only take 30 minutes to do, not sure about the other on a disco. 6o quid for each one...

Could the lack of fuel from overflow be down to a worn lift pump?