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This is the correct reason to go easy and careful with it. Should you have both propshafts connected, tighter turnings might give you some trouble. I used diff lock continuously at high speeds as well on my previous RRC (86 model with LT230)) in winter. My friend also uses it throughout the...

Which is the ECU for 3.9 hotwire FI-system without the cold start injector. Usually the rough running when cold-issues are related to the ECU being knackered. I fixed my old 3.5 EFI Rangie for a while by re-soldering the ECU myself. It worked fine for few months but then it started again and I...

Yup. As well as the ABS-relays, -fuses and ABS-ECU.

If the car has ABS, it can not be the brake servo or it's vacuum hose there - it does not have one. A vacuum leak elsewhere is also a suitable candidate, but I'd check the engine coolant temp sender first.

There's no choke on your car. It could be that the engine coolant temp sender has seized. Is the car hard to start when hot?

The first that would come into mind in this case: Coolant temperature sender faulty (or poor connection, infinite resistance). ECU feeds too much fuel when the engine is hot - thus, hard to start. Easy to check and cheap to replace. There's a connector near the thermostat housing. Unplug it...

Just check the coil and the connections there. The negative side should have a white lead (covered in black plastic cover) going into the ECU loom near the air flow meter. It's not striped in my car , I just checked it under the bonnet. The older flapper type system had a wire with black stripe.

It is highly unlikely that the whole element is gone. Usually one or two of the wires are not working while others work. Most likely the problem lies somewhere else. You can check the element easily also with a multimeter by checking the resistance between the connections on each side (take...

I had a similar problem when I bought my 3.9 RRC (1990-model). The problem was a corroded connection between coil negative side and the ECU. There's a wire there that tells the ECU about the engine revs. If the connection comes loose or corroded, any bumps might interrupt the signal when the ECU...

Try here: www.v-8.org.uk :: Index They have "some" experience on Rover V8.

There might be several reasons for that. In addition to the obvious rust and corrosion holes around the footwell area I'd check the following as well, if your car has air-con. The air-con condenses water and has a tube that lets the water outside the car. If this tube becomes blocked the...

I had similar problems with my Renault Laguna . It had some corrosion in the base of the fuse box. It was really annoying - as is the whole car. What can I do, the wife likes it. I think you are correct about the earth problem. The earths get corroded easily. Check the wiring diagrams from...

Actually they are quite usefull in certain winter conditions. At least here in Finland. E.G. when the night-frost has frozen the remnants of evening rain into about 5mm thick ice coat on the hood. This cannot be prevented by alcohol-based solvents in the washerbottle. Everyone does not live in...

A press at a local garage should do it. However, the press needs to be big enough. I don't remember the pressure figures for my RRC's panhard rod bushes, but the bushes in front radius arms took well over 40 metric tons of pressure before they came off. I took them into a local heavy truck...

Well, I am not doing any extreme offroading either - nor I'm going to - but here (Eastern Finland) in winter I have been stuck a couple of times. We can get a lot of snow occasionally. A rear lock (or a front winch) would have saved me from shoveling. This is the impression that I've got...

That's correct. It works like a dream in my RRC. Although I would like to have ARB diff lock at rear. Then I would have a 3WD :o - I would have needed at least one wheel gripping a couple of times.

That's the LT230 of earlier RRCs and Discos. 91 Classic has Borg Warner transfer box, which has viscous coupling. To the original question: You do not have to change your driving style. When there is a speed difference between the prop shafts the viscous coupling starts to grip automatically...

The bushes can be a bit tight. It probably needs to be a heavy truck garage. "Normal" passenger car garages do not usually have a press big enough. It took 40 tons (metric) to press the bushes out of my old RRC's radius arms. However, with a press big enough it took only about 10 minutes to get...

I'd go with Mik on this one. Check the preload first, then go for the other parts if necessary. The next to check are the panhard rod bushes and fixings and the steering damper. On RRC:s (and Discos) the panhard rod bolt eats the mounting around it quite easily. On the axel mounting I mean. If...

If it will not fire when you boost it, its not the battery. If you can smell the petrol - it's probably not the engine speed signal. Have you checked the coolant temp sensor?