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Coolant temp sensor. Front of intake manifold, above left cylinder bank, near thermostate housing. It also could be related to ignition as well. Coil, cap, rotor arm and ignition module. All of which can cause problems when starting up warm.

If you have only one spark when ignition comes on and off, most likely you have trouble somewhere before the coil. I'd check all the connections coming to coil - and whether the coil receives power at all ie. you should have somewhere around 13V when ignition on. My friend had this kind of...

I had this on my previous RRC as well. It was a bit tricky to spot. The light came on also erratically during nights without being noticed and drained the battery in two or so days. The base of the switch was corroded and the light wasn't switched off (and on) every time I closed or opened the...

90 3.9EFI by your profile? How about the car electrics - do they disappear when turning? If so, check the battery connections and it's earthing. Something electrical - corrosion or bad connection somewhere. I'd first check coil and the connections there (especially the white/black wire at coil...

The part number SFP100480 for brake pads (axle set) seems to be the same at Paddock Spares. So they should be the same. However, I'd still check by phone, since one set of the p38 pads (at least according to the numbers) are not listed under Disco II.

The squeal: A small stone stuck between the brake disc and mud shield? It can also be between the pads and the disc or between the caliper and the disc. Happened to me once and I thought that the car was breaking apart. It didn't squeal all the time - only occasionally, depending on how I...

Starts up fine when cold? First I'd check coolant temperature sensor. It may have seized and needs to be replaced (less than a tenner in UK, e.g. Paddock's). You can also check whether the cold start injector leaks by removing it and pressurizing the fuel rail by moving the AFM-flap with...

Obviously you have not adopted the correct driving style for a RR yet, which is: dignified and sophisticated acceleration with a noble impression on your face looking on the other drivers from above. ;) On these cars you really need to mean it when you floor the pedal. It hurts the ankle if...

You can check the function of the vac.adv unit very easily. Take the dizzy cap off and remove the thin hose on the top of the plenum - the hose goes to the vac. adv. unit. Suck the hose and you should see the dizzy base plate moving. Block the hose (with your tongue, finger - whatever) and check...

Sorry, cannot resist... :rolleyes: What if you are driving in a 4- or 6-lane motorway on the lane furthest to the right overtaking somebody (in UK, Uganda, Kenya, Down Under, NZ etc.) and the kerb is on your right?:p I'd prefer this. It's simple and there's no possibilities for mixing things up...

The T-piece and the first o-ring. The breather filter you can clean yourself easily (e.g. in fuel - take the wire out and let it soak in it - dry the wire before stuffing it back) and use it again. Perhaps you also should renew the hosing if you can see any signs of wear on them. Clean the...

The other one is the thermotime switch, and is more expensive than the CTS (£7.50 excl. VAT at Paddocks). It is in front of the coolant temp sensor. Almost totally useless in UK - it steers the cold start injector connected to left side of the plenum (looking from front). The coolant temp...

Flapper does not have fuel temp sensor. The coolant temp sensor is cheap and should be changed if suspected faulty. If you don't want to spend money on it in vain, you can easily measure resistances with coolant temp change from the ECU loom (or the at the connector) with a multimeter. The...

That's the one i had broken in my car. The other problem was that the vacuum advance was knackered (the thin hose on top of plenum goes to vacuum advance unit on the side of the dizzy). I replaced the T-piece on the engine breather hose (with metallic one), and the vacuum advance unit and - hey...

Did you check all of the piping connected to the inlet after AFM? I just remembered having a broken engine breather hose when I bought my current RRC 3.9 EFI '90. It also stalled when warm. It also had a bad connection at the coil negative (the wire which feeds the ECU the engine speed...

I had my own troubles when I used to own a 3.5 EFI...:o No troubles whatsoever with my 3.9, only the rust goblin... (errr, well, I admit: the ABS don't work).:p Usually the running rough/cutting out problems relates to the coolant temp sensor. If it cuts out when warm, you should also check...

Check the ignition amplifier on the side of the dizzy. It has been a problem for some RRCs.

Not really. Unless you have a tow bar fitted. It needs to come off, which might be difficult in some cases. You need to take remove rear bumper as well (if you have the tow bar). Just empty the tank, get the hoses and wires off and drop the tank. Simple and easy, but almost definitely dirty...

t I disagree. At least here in Finland the most common thing to bust is coolant temp sender, then ECU. I have not heard of any AFMs to go wrong - yet. Both the hotwire and flapper idle air control valve systems may need some cleaning occasionally. The flapper one especially, being very simple...

Nope - it is earthed to the engine via the loom. You can check the earthing as well, but the space there is pretty tight. Watching from front of the engine - right hand bank, behind. I reached the two bolts from behind. If I remember correctly the earth was bolted to the head. I have no idea on...