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Follows on from my thread about TD5 conked. The ECu has a couple of components blackened,, soot inside the case, PCB damaged. No sign of an external (to the ECU) cause. No oil in it, no water ingress. I'm told (by Alive tuning) that they are seeing more and more aged TD5 ECUs failing. And the...

So if the design of an ECU is so crap that it can blow itself up, how can the same company that designed it have the nerve to charge £600 to replace it with one of a similarly crap design? So, 10 years, £600 (+vat) = £60 pa (ditto) = £1.20 p.w. (inc vat) for ECUs - forever. It's not an awful lot...

I've had 2 Td5s that pulled better cold than warm. Always assumed it was an air temp thing - cold air=denser=more oxygen...?

Is it a metric CD or an imperial CD?

Well, sadly, Gary reckons it can't be fixed as the board is damaged. Still don't know why the smoke escaped, so wouldn't know how to pour it back in. Bet Lucas have loads of the stuff. No real sign of oil inside ecu... Reckon that's going to cost me in grief as well as money

Quick update: Found two resistors on ECu board burned out - the blue smoke that makes all electronics work had escaped. It's with Gary at TD5Alive, so he can look at the codes and, if necessary, clone it There's an inherent design flaw (LR - surprise surprise) that means sometimes, the tracks...

Yep, clear the codes to start with, then see what comes up on retrying. But what does make the ecu die?

Ah thanks. One problem I have is that the vehicle won't move, of course. But, although the garage where it is are probably more up to date on TDi than TD5s, they do handle quite a lot of TD5s and some Pumas. As you say, clearing the codes shouldn't be a problem, and the ghost codes should be...

Thanks - I've had that before! - but this is absolutely instantaneous - even a fuel starvation problem would have difficulty acting that fast. In fact. you can actually hold it, revs on, for ages - but if your foot tires and you back off even minutely - engine light on and dies. Not sure about...

No, the vehicle did exactly the same at the garage - ticked over for 30 mins, but then a blip of the throttle stopped it. Now, as for diagnostics - I think they were a bit overwhelmed with fault codes (not least all the codes that come up for things it hasn't got, Like AC or ABS)...

Right, quick update. still no go - garage bit baffled. Changed FPR and fuel filter (needed both anyway). exactly same - will tickover all day, but rev it and it dies - actually, it is specifically if you back off the throttle - even a miniscule amount; engine light comes on, engine dies...

yep. First off, have a look at what the fault codes say, I think

Just a bit to add to this: Having just driven it about 8 miles to Hathersage to a chap I know who fixes all the local farmers' landrovers: Start on the key instantly. Tickover, sweet as anything, for ten minutes. Blip the throttle...dies. turn it over straight away- won't catch. Stand for 2...

good point - no I didn't - it's not actually easy to open them up, is it? - seem to remember they are stuck as well as screwed together? is it feasible to just take it off and drain it,, or would that take months? Think that must be first port of call ps it's not the throttle pot, as...

10 year old 110 doublecab p/up, 130K miles. Owned it from 80K miles, run smooth; serviced 8K ago, 100 miles per day easy running Parked for 2 weeks, facing up hill, full tank. Started it - it revved up then died. wouldn't re-start. Purged (pump 5 times). Started, but ran tremendously...

The software to do that is cheap and ubiquitous - most medium/big companies do it - my university does. Don't ever think you're anonymous on the internet - it takes some skill (beyond most of us!) to do that

Ah This was a defender, 2001. would that have ben same as D1 or D2? I thought it was the barrel since some vehicles do this - but yes, it's still part of the passive immobiliser system. I did find that if I started it with the old key fob present, then removed that fob, it would run fine - but...

That's interesting - why? - I ask because I got a new key fob and he said the 10AS unit was replaced- but had to keep the old fob on the key ring because it still needed to communicate with the ignition barrel. I understood the immobiliser to be separate from the ecu, but the ecu communicates...

I cheated - paid a man to do it

yep 100 miles per day; now getting 31.266 mpg from 110 doublecab p/up, td5 - rain or shine