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He just forgot to mention the Bedford 4x4 truck you'll need to follow you wiv all that tackle:eek::eek:

Nah! I'm off to Rochester there's a tester there wiv dark glasses & a white stick I believe:cool:

:confused: Get earlier one without steering lock maybe? ...switches just use your common sense[cross checked with a wireing diagram].& test each function first before moving /lengthening wires to new panel I suggest

:DReminds me of some years back did a lane in a suzi [mate driving]..side slope/ruts...got into downside ruts with O/S wheels ...suzi start to tip:eek:...I had to hang out of passenger door like crewman of racing dinghy for 200 yds. to keep us from rolling:)

What motor have you got?....4speed??..is it an early v8 110? I think your noise may be from handbrake ...they do this if overadjusted/or,seized/broken spring etc.....as for oils get a 'Haynes' manual.[you'll need it!] or check previous threads/postings Good luck

Might be worth checking/regreasing all your wheel bearings to eliminate them first?...drain/change transmission oils & see if they look uncontaminated [could try that MTF94? instead of ATF???].....see how it goes:confused:

I dont own a series but 40mph from a 6cyl.2.6 can't be right,I;d get compression tested[they burn rear cyl. valves] &/or suspect carb running weak [good emissions!]....see how plug read..if white too weak;)

Whoops bit too late with my post....never mind ..good luck with the rebuild

I might just add ,keep all your pushrods in their original positions + while head off either lap in valves for a good seal OR send head away to convert to unleaded[ if you anticipate any hard 'fast' runs] & I would go for composite h/g unless top of block totally perfect [ it will last you...

:confused:But,but, but....pikeys dont drive Landys{'cept the ones they nick to break:mad:]they drive slitty double cabs [brand new.........on the 'profits' from br......Oops better not say more?]:eek:

;) Could try pistonheads.com...?

:confused:Guess it must have passed one MOT like it then?....probably m/cyl.....get OEM if you can afford it{some would say you cant afford NOT to!]:)

:)Great answer above.....may I just add if rad.quite old & you use 'hard'water flush may not work....possible new rad. @ some point?:(:(

:oYea I know.........wrong quote:rolleyes:!!!!

may have seen it on another forum.....but IF fitting a new arm......use angle grinder to carefuly!!! cut into arm[not yours:eek:] vertically just shy of splines toweaken it...I would then ,with heavy block on opposite side belt side of arm near cut then pull with extractor...good luck!

:confused:If you think about it Landies MUST let the water in or else they'd float not wade.....??....clever design you see:rolleyes:

:eek:They are the very bugger to even see let alone work on .....a very slim triple jointed wrist on an extended arm [fitted with lighting] is a great advantage....I hope this advice has been useful?:D.....

:rolleyes::rolleyes: :blabla: I think therein lays your answer...£160...??...they probably dont find old Landies profitable enough....but give bull**** reply:mad:

try fitting a new slave cyl. & bleeding?

Do all you can to ensure its not part one of 5!&maybe the landy to suit later? ...F...ing pikeies I expect[ & they are above the law unfortunately]:mad: