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Haynes manual will tell you what should be done and when.

lol - be careful on that site. I always seem to spend more than I meant to when I order from them!

Close, but no cigar! It's these that you want :p

I can't remember who I bought it from - I just Googled it I think. I bought a 2.5 litre tin and they were quite happy to ship it.

Sorry, should have said. I used their primer - it's rust stabilising plus it forms an impermeable barrier as it cures. I'm so pleased with it that I've just used good old Frosts chassis black over the top - it gives a nice gloss finish and is dead easy to touch up.

I did some research on this prior to starting my Series 2A rebuild. I ended up buying some stuff called Corroless - it's not cheap but it's very good stuff.

I've had cars which have different tyres front to back, and side to side! Needless to say, there was no spare - just a can of tyre weld. I'd be very surprised if it was necessary on a 4x4. It's certainly not something I've ever considered doing.

Come on then! :p Or were they deemed too frightening even for LZ?

Went laning in the morning, so only got as far as degreasing everything. Still, it's made a big difference to the appearance of the chassis. As an aside, I've been pondering the "Trigger's Broom" nature of a Land Rover chassis. Mine has already had a new rear crossmember and four new...

It's a great big Mecanno kit - albeit with some very rusty nuts and bolts! If you take the approach that you'll be replacing all the nuts and bolts, don't be afraid to grind them off. I dismantled my truck cab down to the chassis in a day, on my own. You'll have some heavier bits, so it'll be...

You'll definitely struggle to weld a chassis with a 90A MIG :( I've got a 150A and 3mm is about the limit for decent penetration. The other option is a cheap MMA welder - buy one off eBay, use it to repair your chassis (the welds don't need to be pretty, just strong!) and then flog it...

Thanks very much for inviting me along. We were truly blessed with the weather - long may it continue!

Did some lanes in the Ninety this morning. Degreased the Series chassis in the afternoon.

Can't believe it's April and I've done sweet FA on the Series 2A so far this year. Bad man! :o So yesterday I finished stripping the chassis - I'd left a few bits attached as they had proved stubborn b*****ds to remove last time I tried.... and guess what? A few more months sat outside in all...

Very nice, mate. It's a long way off, but when I come to put seats back in my Series 2A, it'll definitely be a set from Sam's Trims - as you say, the quality versus price is gonna be difficult to beat.

Finished stripping my Series 2A's chassis - got three small patches to do but apart from that it's in amazing condition.

I guess every setup is different - with the balance between front and back right, I can turn the volume up enough to drown out the engine and it's still fine to listen to. There's certainly no distortion until way past the "painful" setting :D

Yup, I mostly agree. However, given that it's the high-frequencies which are easier to determine the direction of, by putting the tweeters on top of the dash and the woofers in the under-dash pods, with adjustable cross-overs between them you can get a reasonable "sound stage" in the front. I...

I made spacers out of MDF so that I could fit reasonably-sized speakers under the dash.

5 channel Maystar amplifier behind passenger seat. Front channels drive Boston Acoustics component setup - tweeters on top of dash, woofers on underside of dash. Rear channels drive Boston Acoustics co-axial 6x9s in pods either side of rear door. Sub-woofer is a Boston Acoustics 8" in a...