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Ah good to see humour is alive and well on the forum:D On a serious note I will try to asertain diesel or oil:D

REALLY stumped the forum:eek:

Looks like I have stumped the forum:D

What " proppa stuff " were you planning on using:)

Hi all- when checking my acquired 1995 300tdi manual some time ago I noticed thet there were odd little bubbles around the no 4 injector:eek: I know the head had been skimmed and gasket changed so I replaced the injector washers as I had a set:D Thought this had solved the prob but noticed...

I know of a similar episode of a squeek and the 'mechanic' replaced the tensioner to cure it.A week later the alternator seized (which what was really squeeking) and blew the belt apart:eek: As previous reply says take off belt and check all the bits:D

As a matter of interest Dave how is the Gbox ie smooth changes etc. If all is well stick to the ATF in my humble opinion:D

Im no expert on this but from reading other threads it seems ATF was specified at first as it made for easier gear changes specially when cold.It also masked the second gear syncro problem.Problem was ATF is not great for wear in the box:eek: so LeRs solution was to then spec MTF. I am sure...

ATF is I think 5W20 and MTF is 80W90:eek: Difference is like liquid and treacle:D

Change the lot mate-not big money and you wont be going back later to do the others:D Get new clamps as well:D

Fitted a flexi to my 300tdi manual.Simply because it was easier to fit as I changed the entire exhaust and had no helper at the time:eek:.Logic would say that the give in the flexi joint would make the exhaust last longer:D End of the day its a matter of choice. Flexi was less than £30 more...

Thanks for the replys peoples:D

OK-on mine the ball joint at the steering arm end is LH and hub end is RH,Thats so you can adjust the steering centre. As a matter of interest I got new ones from Paddocks ( full set-3X RH and 1 X LH ) They were Delphi make and good quality:D:D

Is that the rod that connects the steering arm from the steering box to the hub-just to be sure :D

If its the same as mine (300tdi ) the track rod is 2 X RH thread and drag link is 1XLH and 1X RH I would think the threads are the same for heavy duty rods but hope someone else can confirm this:D

Hi all Can someone tell me the socket size needed to remove the rear brake disks (non ABS ) I think they are Bi Hex:rolleyes:

A quick tip is to buy the cheap hub nut spanner for use with a bar and weld a round plate to the top of it.Then drill a hole in said plate to suite say a 19mm bolt and weld that in. You can then use a torque wrenche with a standard socket-worked for me:D:D:D:D

PS-worth getting the seals for the sedimenter as well just in case they are shot like mine were:eek:

Tis 11mm alright;)

Did our stable floors with a similar stable mat.Great stuff but you need a sharp Stanley knife to cut it:D:D