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I miss the front bumper... Q7 cloned front end just doesn't do it for me. I hope it looks better in real life.

Don't worry, I've changed them afterwards. Way afterwards :)

It was one of the first problems with my P38a at the time. Nobody except the main stealer would touch the car ("it's an off road vehicle, we don't work on that" etc etc), so I used what I had at hand... a copper hammer would be nice though. Def300: i was also afraid of wrecking the threads, but...

Well.. my front hub came off with a help of a large propane torch, a lot of freeze penetrating oil and a BIG hammer. I actually screwed the screws that hold the hub to the carrier back in a few turns (the more the merrier, but leave some space for the movement), then banged them with the...

My suggestion is either a BIG hammer, smack the screw a few times. Other than that, soak the screw in penetrating oil, possibly the "freezing" kind :) combine both, and a gentle touch with a blowtorch, and voila.

If the T/Box ECU is fried, also be sure to dismantle the T/Box motor, as their getting stuck on their own stator magnet chips usually cause the ECU to burn out. Clean out the chips and reassemble the motor afterwards, but do not open the part which bolts onto T/Box, as there are position sensors...

When already there, check the state of caliper sliding bolts, all should be moving around easily. They are between caliper bracket and caliper, under black rubber boots. Also, i've chamfered the leading and trailing edges on the brake pads, it stops them squealing, but that's totally dependent...

TB, which grabbers? the "old" AT2 or the newer AT design? I'm on Cooper Discoverer M+S right now and they are good on snow but are almost gone... I need something all-round and good enough on the snow, as we get quite some of the stuff here in the winter and my poverty-spec doesn't have TC... :)

steve, if the pump works with ignition on, there is nothing wrong with the black relay. If it was, it wouldn't work. Usually if broken, the relay sticks in the ON position (actually welds its contacts together internally), so the pump is working all the time (even with the car turned off and key...

Also, check the only black relay in the engine bay fuse box. It controls the brake pump and it's a known weak point because of the pretty amazing quantity of current it controls. Try to short the contacts but beware, there could be a large spark :)

Trevt, probably the accumulator is the culprit, but do check if the abs pump is working. There should be a few second whirring sound after few brake presses. If the accumulator is fecked, the whirring sound should be after each brake pedal press.

I've put on some ATE discs on the P38. They come painted light gray out of the box and the pads grind down the paint at the contact areas in few days. Braking was normal even during that period and the disks don't rust even after 1 year. Excellent performance and price.

3 different brands of tyres on a Range Rover at one time? That's not a very good idea... :)

Probably a fuse. Do you get any messages at all on the dash display when you press the Hi-Lo range button? Check if the plug of the Transfer box ECU is seated correctly (unplug and plug again). Could also be a duff dash button.

I use cheap (30€ for 10l) semi-synthetic 5w40 and change it every 10k to 12k km. I just can not justify Castrol or something similarly priced to throw it away at this rate. Mind you, it's my daily driver, that means at least two and more likely three oil changes yearly.

Great car, i drive it at work. Just do not let it in hands of an incompetent car electrician, as they can become a money pit just for clearing faults. Also, check your oil consumption, as it can be substantial (1L / 2000km). I hope yours is better than mine regarding fuel consumption, it's...

Any of you fine gents (and laydees) have a spare right sunroof rail/guide/slider and are prepared to part for silly money and ship it to Slovenia? :D Mine just went, the slider part snapped in two between the riser and the part where cable connects to it. The sunroof opened and closed...

Datatek just said what was on my mind. Land Cruiser (100 series, not the pussywagon 90 / Prado) would be my first choice, but 15k EUR against 4k EUR for the same year / same mileage car was (and still is) a no brainer to me. Other than that, i'd maybe have a 4Runner or Hi-Lux.

it's a manual, so all as it should be with the fogs :) i wanted a manual because i thought that it will be more reliable. Guess what, my slave cylinder for the clutch went... but still, 1 EUR for the seal was pretty reasonable :beer2:

Don't know about others, but my 95' DT has AC, fog lights, sunroof and high line BeCM. It doesn't have TC and other bells and whistles though. Not even a trip computer. Or cruise control. Sigh! :monitor_punch: