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Turns out my decision was a bit rash. Latest part of the saga. So I got the new Turner motor in. Fairly straightforward job but getting the Torque convertor on was a 4 hour struggle. Fired her up and I got the same problem. After a few minutes the temp gauge went into the red and the coolant...

Right, I've done it. Ordered a Turner engine from a LR specialist in Suffolk. If that doesn't fix it there will be a Range Rover shaped Guy on the bonfire this November 5th.

Seen a Turner engine for sale at £1195. Very Tempted. No cyl heads but mine have been skimmed and pressure tested so I am pretty confident they are OK

I don't think the K Seal worked although I am going to take it out for another gentle run today just to be sure. If I do decide to take it to the next level i.e. repair, is there anyone you would recommend from personal experience that could supply a replacement engine with all the mods done...

Just the bottom hose. Don't know how much came out. Didn't measure it.

Update. Still getting a lot of bubbles back into the expansion tank even when cold. Coolant stinks of exhaust fumes. I have just put some K Seal in and took it out for a short drive. Seemed OK. radiator warmed up and the LPG switched over and stayed switched on. Will take it out for a longer run...

I'm thinking that I have to explore the air lock theory before I go any further. I have printed out the section of the manual with the cooling system diagram and description and I am going to go through it hose by hose and hopefully chase out any air in the system. I will also refit the original...

Just had another go at this. Ran for about 20 mins on fast idle before it went into it's "overheat mode". At no point did the radiator warm up at the bottom and the radiator side of the stat was not hot at any time. Also noticed that the heater "in and out" hoses were sometimes hot and then...

I am going to have a little poke around with my laser thermometer. Should be able to detects any anomalies in the flow.

Hi Martyn. My thoughts went straight to that. I filled each hose and component separately to avoid any air locks and ran a hosepipe through everything (at low pressure). I have parked the car "nose high" during the filling and bleeding process. Also, the small return pipe is fine and produces a...

Tested the old stat (as above) and this appears to work correctly. Just to rule out the possibility that I could have two components with exactly the same fault ( I am in the motorcycle repair business so I know that this CAN happen) I am going to devise a way of holding the stat open in order...

When the car is not in it's fault condition i.e. working properly, the rad is nice and warm all over. When it is in it's faulty (overheating) condition the radiator is cold except for the very top part. The top hose will then be red hot and is sometimes rock hard and sometimes not rock hard. The...

She sounds fine. Runs really sweet even when she is overheating. When I had the heads off I looked at the liners and they were perfect. I am going to take the rad off on Monday and see if there is anything loose inside that could be affecting the flow. Like I said. It can run perfectly for 20...

Hi All, I would welcome some intelligent comment on the problem I am having with my RR. It all started 2 weeks ago when I decided to replace the coolant in my 2000 P38 4.6 V8 petrol/lpg Rangie. Everything appeared OK at first but then after a couple of miles the temp needle shot into the red...

Hi All. Just bought a 2000 p38 4.6 Vogue. I absolutely love it. Did a lot of research before I bought it and found the info on this Forum invaluable. Thanks.