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I left the carpet in when I welded the boot floor and got a crap load of holes in it :doh:. So I need the rear footwell carpet and arch parts in beige. Thanks Ant.

Pretty much what I would do, I would use 300-400s to rub down for a better key, and 2000s before Polishing, it's easier to polish out and you have more control it's less aggressive but takes a bit longer. If you are going to let the primer dry past tacky. I would flat the primer back with 800s...

That's the Quarter panel.

I wouldn't know to be honest, depends on the gun, paint type you are using, ratios etc. If you take a look a guns the manufactures normally list the hp cfm and psi requirements and what paint types and ratios to use. I had a 3.0HP 50Ltr Sealey and I that was Ok for doing it panel by panel using...

Cellulose is so easy to use, I'm only using an old £50 tankless hobby compressor and A constant bleed £15 gun. It is little orange peely upfront these are poor pictures. But If I turned the paint flow down, and didn't use it so thick it would be a lot smoother. I heated the panels too as it is...

No, you can buy any paint you want as customer, the whole water based thing is for company's etc as far as I'm aware. The paint I'm using on my Disco is cellulose, you can still buy 2K paints etc all the paint shops I know still sell it all

That was done with with with Hexlogic pads, 3 different grades of 3m and Menzerna polishes. I didn't paint it, it was a customers car I just corrected it, it had been painted and blended to about half way down the door. You wouldn't need to go through all that to for a land rover unless you was...

Take a part into a paint shop and have look at there colour chips, If there is no match get them to make it most paint shops do it. Mine disco is going Nato green close ish, £16 a ltr in cellulose at my local most can do custom rattle can too.

Get a half decent compressor and do it your self. Satin is really easy to paint, It really isn't hard to pick it up and get a decent finish. As is said prep is the key to a good finish and mixing the paint correctly once that is in order It really isn't hard. Good primers are not expensive if...

One of my reasons for going Nato Green, If it gets battered I don't care and with it being satin it is so easy to just mask up flat down and respray. That and it's cool as ****, my daughter wants me to Camo it.

Made a little bit more progress, driver doors and shuts done.

Fitted the HD Bumper, and steering guard. Then Bent the track rod trying to refit the poly bushed radius arm, and it hasn't even moved yet.

Thanks for the help guys.

Just got a HD bumper but my OEM bumper had front fogs. Am I right in thinking I don't need these for MOT and the law etc or do I have to have them as they was fitted as stock. Second one, If I get a set of spot lamps and fit to the top of the bumper between the grill like a lot of of other...

Might of been, I wasn't paying much attention today been in a world of my own.

The guy was telling me in the shop the have paint type specific for roller and brush painting. Not sure what it is, but it was the first thing he said when I told him It was a Land Rover.

Cellulose satin Nato green paint 50/50 thinners, No Primer apart from the bits I've had to go to bare metal or use filler so just a good flatting with 320s and I'm using a spray gun. Think I did about 6-7 coats, It drys pretty quick. Far from a pristine job, but it's nato green I really don't...

Not today but over the past few weeks, I have done rear body mounts, rear shuts, rear tubs patched and the boot floor, repaired the front foot wells, new inner wing, chassis repair, chassis and underneath wire wheeled and treated with deox. Annnnnnnnnd breath, Chassis under sealed, got a HD...

Mines started, I decided on on Nato green. Did the wings today, going to do the bonnet and roof tomorrow.

That is what I might be doing mine in, that or satin black.