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Whats wrong with your Diff? It may be cheaper to buy a good secondhand unit or simply just fix yours. Having just rebuilt a diff it is quite simple to do and set up. But Crown Differentials and Ashcroft Transmissions will do a recon.

Worth every penny of the £6000 starting price!!! :crazy: What is "hyrdrolic " will the car bounce down the road driven by Snoop Dog!

I fitted an Iphone compatible stereo with a new plug in mic. This connects by bluetooth.

Hi Doug, Having looked at lots before I bought my DSE I would go for a 99 MY or newer as they should be more reliable. Did the later vehicles get a metal waterpump vane? Check the hoses are not too hard on a hot engine and that it has a thermostat fitted

When I fixed my Hevac blend motors and core temp sensor the book symbol went off but the codes were still stored by the HEVAC until cleared with the BBS FCR.

Get your Solex rebuilt by a specialist or fit a genuine Zenith. I have tried a weber, a copy Zenith and now have a genuine zenith. The Zenith does warp but this is easy to fix. The weber strangles power and is a pain in cold weather as it ices up. The replacement zeniths tend to leak petrol over...

Use a steel 1p coin and fit it as a blank to the pipe which bolts to the EGR. I also put a plug inside the EGR vac hose. It does make a difference. Some pictures here where they use a 2p but I think a 1p fits better...

I often get a comms error on my BBS FCR when reading EDC. Mine is an 99 EGR engine. Just try turning the ignition on and off untill it reads. My OBD socket is OK and has been checked but EDC often gives this error on the first read.

No the OEM diaphram is a different fit to the all rubber type.

Thanks for your help so far. The compressor had stopped. Then the air came from the exhaust. First a woosh. Then clicking and lowering from the front and more air. Both diaphragms were fitted correctly to a clean block. All pipes were checked for leaks.

Thinking about it, the compressor ran then stopped did the exhaust cycle then the front end dropped which is the extra air from the exhaust. leaking NRV?

There is a huge difference in the exhaust function with the new diaphram compared to the all rubber type.

I bought the diaphragm last year when I first bought my P38. I had it as a spare just in case. As I was stuck the otherday with a failure I rebuilt my compressor with a new bearing and seal and fitted this diaphragm. No air came out when the compressor was running, but the diaphram was staying...

Time to submit feedback then! CRAP! It will break your compressor.

Having fitted a solid rubbertype diaphragm( handy spare purchased from ebay) my compressor would not stop running and then overheated. Having just fitted the correct oem metal backed one my EAS is now correct. The all rubber type was not resealing after the exhust cycle. Lesson learnt!

I have the exhaust filter off and can hear the woosh and the residual air. There is no air escaping when the compressor is running.

thanks for the reply. May be my diaphragm sticking then?

Having looked through the posts and trying to sort my EAS snags, Can someone confirm that when the compressor stops you get a large woosh of air from the exhaust on the valve block then a small leak off of air for about 3 or 4 seconds. Thanks

Are the solid rubber one useless? http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Air-Suspension-Diaphragm-Repair-/190228129329?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c4a7ae631#ht_597wt_905

Hi All My Valve block diaphragm is split. Is it best to use the OEM type with the metal backing ring or is the all rubber type good enough. Thanks