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Had a look at mine and see what you mean now. I was thinking of where the wheelbox meets the bulkhead. I only replaced mine about a year ago and they don't look too sturdy. You could always use self amalgamating tape.

I could be wrong but from the description, it sounds to me like one of the rocker pedestal bolts is stripped. I had that problem on my 200 TDI, when it comes away the tappets do become a lot louder and oil of course escapes from the rocker. Assuming the design is the same on the 300, the...

Are they not just an o ring?

I had to drop the exhaust on mine to get the slave out because the old slave was fitted upside down with the bleed valve on the bottom :(

Lock your spare wheel on it, then it will be a 4 man job to lift the bonnet off!

Sounds hydraulic to me. Topping up won't drive out the air, it will need bleeding and the source of the problem found. As you were laning, could be physical damage to flexi or slave. I would start with the cheap option of replacing the slave, flexi and master then see what happens. Beyond...

Actually, I forgot, I replaced both the Master and Slave together with Delphi ones not long ago - not just the slave, so they should be fine. Although the level was pretty full, there was a vacuum present when I opened it. I suspect one of the unions must be a little loose, I'll have a nose...

The wire for it is either blue or green if that helps. If it's ex-mod there will be no wiring for it. I don't have one as it's not an MOT req. I just put my workllights on when I want to reverse and most people seem to get the idea.

Help me diagnose my clutch problem please. This morning, the gears crunched when I changed into 4th. From that point onwards, I could not change gear without rev matching. I also can't change gear when stationary unless I kill the engine. Pressing the clutch does actually disengage the gears...

Double check that torque figure against the Workshop Manual. I did the same thing with an engine mount once because the figure in the Haynes manual is wrong. Could you use washers so that the undamaged thread is used?

No, it's probably off the cam. You do have the ignition on when you're pumping? Anyhow, if you have air free fuel at the filter, that's all you need. Check for leaks with engine running, job done!

Btw, I opened the fuel filter bleed valve and turned the engine over until fuel came out. Sounds fine then. You could always trim the new bolts to length.

Did you compare the parts before fitting? I think there are different versions. Some need a spacer fitted.

Cool. Good luck, not that you will need it with those.

Did you get the bolt off?

Sorry, missed your reply. I got mine from Toolstation: http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pcs/96028 . I was so impressed, I also got the extension set, I think I bought them online. Oldseadog recommended them to me - they are certainly not a waste of money as you are...

It depends on the setup. I put a 1.2 disco t.box in my 110 and it's fine but mine has the lower ratio military 1st and 2nd gears. I usually set off on 1st now, sometimes 2nd. With my old 1.6 t.box, I used to always set off in 2nd always. Even uphill. I can certainly see that the tall gears...

You can use mine, but I come with them as they are my favorite tool! Smallest size is 8mm. Next up is 10mm. There is an imperial size that looks to be similar to the 10mm or slightly smaller. There must be room to get a toffee hammer in. The drive on them is 3/8".

It's hard to describe, but they have a sort of reverse flute in them so they tighten and bite into the head as you slacken off the bolt. I'm sure the 10mm will be fine.

As mentioned earlier, try an Irwin bolt extractor. They are the same size as a socket.