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Just wanted to share experience with the above tool. After plus-gassing, heating, hammering, grunting, straining and a lot of swearing, I put a 16mm Irwin remover onto the exhaust bolt of the TD5 turbo I'm removing. Using a long extender offered up from below, and a very seriously large amount...

The Irwin worked a treat. I put the 16mm extractor over the nut and firmed it up in place with a G-clamp. I put three 1/2" extension bars together onto a 1/4" adapter (the Irwin is a 1/4" square) and offered the whole piece up from below. Using a 24" torque wrench set to 160lbs I had to put a...

Hmmm... they're interesting. I could get one in no problem, except maybe the rear one. I'll try an ordinary socket and if it works I might pick up a 14mm and give it a go. Rusted and seized steel exhaust bolts must be the bane of every home mechanic, and have been for the 25 years I've worked...

I agree. The other two nuts are okay, justt seized. I'll give them a bit more gas and heat, and yes, Im going pick up a 14mm hex. The third one is buggered though. I got the splitter on it this morning but as one member said in here it doesn't work too well on flanged bolts and the splitter...

Got the hoses all out this morning, they are soaked with oil so I suspect the seal has been leaking for a while, so I bet the engine has been drinking engine oil for a while. Since she starts (started) on first kick I'm not worried about plugs or injectors, but everything else will need washed...

Yeah, I think I will give the intercooler a good check and clean. Workshop manual says you have to remove the radiator, which means draining the coolant... oh well, may as well replace that. In fact, why don't I replace the intercooler while I'm there? I mean at 160K miles I should be changing...

What do you think about the X-Defend? It's more expensive but I like the idea that you don't have to stow it every time.

Yeah, fortunately it blew just outside the house, so I've only limped back up the drive. Recon unit ordered along with a new silicone hose set and waste gate, so that'll be going in on Monday! Will send some pics but the vanes look knackered as well, and there's oil all over the shop.

I think this is probably a really stupid question, but.... when I remove the rubber hose on the intake, if the turbo is good I should be able to easily turn the rotor with my fingers, no? It's jammed hard, and there's fresh oil lying around the inlet aperture, so I take that as meaning knackered?

I'll get the pipes off tomorrow for a good look and get all the bolts soaked with gas as the turbo will likely be coming out and the biggest issue is always the bloody bolts!

That's the kind of soft warming words I need to hear... should I do the waste gate too? It moves, but it's stiff as hell.

Oh yeah... I've watched a couple of YT videos on that and it was one of the tests during my engineering training about 30 years ago. The team leader put a ping-pong bat over the turbo intake, which he thought would stop it. But it sucked the rubber off the bat, ate it and then failed. So it...

By the way... a pic of the hose from the intercooler. Not sure if that oil amount is excessive or not, but I would guess there should be none. And just to add... I just went out to move her onto the drive, that smoke that I said was "not much" is now a full on plume of white/blue... would have...

So day one of properly driving my "new" 110 TD5 around (2006 with 160K on it) and I think I have a blown turbo. During the test drive I noticed a pretty loud turbo whine at certain throttle and load positions - it screamed on acceleration up to a certain point then went quiet, also went quiet if...

Thanks, I think you're right. When I lock the doors with the remote, I get a blinking red light on the dash, so I think the previous owner was talking bollocks, the factory fitted unit seems to be working okay. I will be popping down to the shops to pick something physical up though.

She's pretty much like the others I drove, in fact one I test drove was a 15 plate and a lot worse. She is perfectly steerable, but yes my other cars are much tighter. She was MOT'd in May and the only advisories were tyres and a brake pipe. I'll be getting my LR mate to look over it next week...

Well.... here she is!!! I think I got a bargain. Got her on fleabay and on checking out was exactly as per description. She is a very mature 12 years old (2006 with 160K) and a TD5 XS. As I said, this is my first Defender, so while I driven some mates' Defenders the test drive and then driving...

Very good point thanks, I think we all know that defenders without AC can be fun in the summer... Do you know if AC was standard on all XS models - web seems to suggest so.

Yeah I like the 90s but didnt realise how small they were (got a separate thread on that). I've emailed a seller asking what parts he's replaced and I'm a bit familiar with some from my D2. It's also a rebuild so will be checking VIN and engine number to V5!!! Thanks for comments. Am I right...

I've been thinking about a Defender for ages. Of all the Land Rovers I've owned (3 classic RRs, Disco 2 and 3 and Range Rover P38 and L322) I've never had a Defender. I'm amazed at the silly money some are going for, so rather than trade-in the workhorse and part with cash I've decided to spend...