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only part might be hard to find is inner half shafts they are about 2 inches shorter than front axels with rover difs ihave only ever seen a right side one on ebay at about £250 I think I bought mine 16 years ago fully reconditioned by military for £500 the track rod is diferant than a rover...

no front one is a diferant seal with a lip round outer edge you press in seal until lip is tuching outer edge of hub

have you got alathe or a mate with a lathe it is quite easey to make a tool to pres seal in square as I say I have a new seal that clearly states press to a depth of 4mm

is it a 90 or 110 in my 90 workshop manual it says you should press seal 4.8 to5.3 mm below face of hub my work shop manual is for a 1985 v8 90 with 4 pinion diff I have view several vidios on utube but nobody mentions about fitting depth can you remember what depth the old one was fitted to...

I fitted a trw clutch master cylinder only lasted 3 months push rod ball end was sheding bits of metal which scored bore of cylinder could dot claim as I bought cylinder 4 years ago whilst working full time

deferant range rover

lets hope that cures it

have you tried clipping off all brake hoses try pedal and then release one pipe at at a time to see how it changes stroke of pedal I think some one has suggested this but are any brake pipes bulging under pressure

v8

well done hope all goes well

on looking in scrap bin this was an earley manifold withmanifold is an exhaust butterfly yours looks like later type so unless manifold is cracked not very likely the promlem

on earley 2/4 engines this could happen don't know about later ones might have modified manifold

could you have a leak between exhaust manifold and inlet so hot exhaust gases are mixing with in going petrol and air I had an early 2/14 that had this happen it was making noise that sounded sompthing like yours on earley engines there was a gasket between top of exhaust manifold and bottem of...

lets hope that has cured it

water pump impeller slipping 0n shaft

you would have you would have to take off float bowl underneath carb held on with 6 screws the filters may have been taken off but might be worth checking but I don't think this iis the problem but you would at least this part of carb was clean have you taking off petrol supply to carbs switch...

you can blow out gauzes carfuly with air line

hi on lookinneenelg at diagram of stromburg carbs it looks like float needle valves may have gause filters attached to top

on my 1985 v8 90 there is a fuel filter on off side just in front of back wheel also if you have electric pump there is a filter in base of pump you hav to turn base of pump totake it out it

for a quick job run wire from head lamp switch to dipd conectionon head light after mot you can have more time to do it properly to be safe put fuse in circet behind switch