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yep. we have loads of tuna now....

I made mine myself, it simply bolts to the original manifold instead of the webber that was on there, and has the SU bolt pattern on the other side. The SU I got from a metro already had a 90 degree bend in it to mount to the metro manifold, so everything turns up the right way round. would be...

do what MHM said. what wattage are the lights? 30 amp probably large for 2 lights, I've got 4 55W on a 25A fuse & 30A relay. use a relay or the switch will burn out.

watch that U have cupro-nickel alloy pipe not pure copper, which apparently may fatigue and crack with obviously distressing results. there was a point where you could buy pure copper pipe in brake pipe sizes, dunno if you still can tho.

chinese lucas copy ones from paddocks for 16 quid plus VAT, mine's working OK still :)

SU! SU! SU! I never got on with my webber, took it apart and cleaned it and re-sealed/gasketed it loads of times and it didn't help, always stalled coming up to lights etc. SU has more power and does 27mpg, starts every time and idles at a beautifully steady 400 rpm. but they are expensive if...

yeah, not great. It's reduced quite a bit now I have some crankcase vacuum recirculation system going - made my own catch tank from a jamjar :) it's ****ing out the rear seal and the sump gasket, and it burns quite a bit as well. Still, the oil is cheaper than the petrol and it doesn't get...

depends what you want. as mentioned you gets what you pay for. I bought mine for about 500 quid and it was a proper snotter, chassis patched to ****, every panel dented and uses a pint of oil every 50 miles. but it works, and I like it, it looks ruined but has 'character'. spent about 300...

ring the DVLA. As far as engine swaps go, when I did it last year, in Feb, you need EITHER a receipt for the engine, with the chassis number and engine number of the car it's come from, OR a receipt form the garage that's done the work, OR a letter from a VOSA accredited testing station to say...

another vote for the metro one, same splines and everything. Mines the 'safety' wheel with sort of squashy rubber on it, feels nice.

mine popped and stalled exactly as that. fixed the stalling by fitting an SU carb. still popped after that, I changed the dizzy from ducellier to lucas copy and it stopped the popping. i figure the stalling was something causing the plugs to foul up on the overrun so it would stall after...

was a drive it 100 miles then put it back in again job, used about 17 litres I think SU on it and 750 tyres at 35psi

in fact, very surprising. a huge great 27mpg over 100 miles from a 2 2/4 petrol. must have been that chinese distributor i fitted. maybe. and it passed it's MOT as well. with a half finished side step/rock slider that looks like a rocket launcher I forgot to take off :eek: :):):):):)

jamming/ sticky front axle UJs? or a mad spring in the steering box. Has it got FWH?

the ferrari ones :p hows the saab ones gone?

yu don't want them seats - they'v got holes in em!

cheers fellas, useful pics. might try taking the bottom off v.e.r.y carefully - presumably yu can get rebuild kits fer these things with new oil seals etc in em? fanks!

as above, horrid gooey black stuff. looks like grease. is there a seal in there, I know there's a massive spring in there.... I'd just stopped the engine leaks as well, with a jamjar. Bah Is it a 'watch it leak and fill it up again' job or is it worth taking the bugger to bits? looks...

nowt worse than a dried out stripper

agree with what's said here - try before you buy if you can, I didn't, and when you drive it for the first time you think "no way can this be right" but it is. Don't get a rust one unless you like welding or are rich. Mines petrol, starts every time and is reliable as a swiss watch and manages...