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That pretty much confirms a faulty sensor. They are not servicable units so best throw it away and get a quality replacement. Ideally go for a Genuine replacement, but in the real world, the Bosch OE one is the way forward.

That is probably the sensible option. Post you findings - this sort of thing is always interesting reading.

How bad is the old unit? Wouldn't it be cheaper to build the top end up, rather than buy in a non guaranteed 'recycled' unit?

Your tech needs to check the sensor using T4 live data to confirm it has an issue. Don't bother with ebay units. You are throwing money away. Get a Bosch one. Have you priced up an Allmakes one which probably has the PR2 OEM label on the packaging? That may be better value.

The book time for a straight head gasket change on the TD4 is around 9 hours. If things need engineering on the head, then you are looking at 13 or 14 hours. We did a head on one about 12 months ago and the bill including VAT was around £1200. That included crack and pressure testing the...

If it turns out to be the stereo head unit, let me know as I've got a couple of new Genuine units kicking around.

Price up one at your Dealership. You could find that the Genuine one is not much more than an aftermarket one.

If the vehicle is dancing up and down every 20 or so seconds, it could be the height sensors, or an obstructed non return valve. You've probably got one poor sensor on the front and another on the rear. Use genuine sensor replacements, not Britpart ones.

You can't use a book time for them (because there isn't one listed in the RTS) so it would not be easy to estimate. The second problem is that I doubt you can get replacement parts, so they will have to be made up for you, adding to the cost. Not a cheap one, I feel.

That *.txt file shows no reading from Bank A HO2 sensor. It could just be the hardware you used. Not being one to state the bleedin' obvious, but wouldn't it be worth the cost of a 10 minute T4 session (probably £25 worth) to find out what the stored DTC's are?

Don't fancy it then, Jon? :D I know you love P38's... :boink:

My 4.6 is averaging 60k on each engine. It's now at just over 180k. I've replaced the engine at 175k and taken a Turner top hat unit with the gas flowed heads, added a set of performance injectors complete with a Mark Adams remap, sports cats and single system, ACT carbon fibre inlet trumpets...

Or a stuck EGR valve(s). Open the bonnet with the engine running, then switch off the enigine, and listen down both sides of the engine for a series of click-clicks. That's the valves self cleaning. If one or both are not working, then that could be the problem. Probably best in the long...

Gary at Alive Tuning does one - a stainless one. Don't expect tubo whistle like a Td5 though. It just doesn't sound as nice, even with a full stainless system. It's also a bit of a pain to fit, as the heat shield on the TDCi normally secures half of itself on the cat section, so you end up...

Or some vanos rattle. What oil grade is he using?

Alive Tuning do make 300tdi intercoolers, or rather Serck Motorsport make them for them. Maybe call them and ask to speak with Jim in the Workshop about any pros/cons and further tweeks which can be made such as with the injector pump etc...

The coopers stuff should be OK, but I'm guessing by the price that that rotor filter is a cheap 'n nasty version. Fit only Genuine or OEM rotor filters.

Get me a part number and I will see what I can do.

There is a switch on the back of the units which sets the headlamp unit to LHD models. Remove the bulb cover and in there is a white plastic rocker switch. Problem can be getting to it though.

There is an issue with the rear diffs on these. LR Tech Service Bulletin LTB342 cover this. Diffs have been a weak point on all the later model vehicles at some time or another - Puma Defenders/L319/L320 and the L322.