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The figure you give for your compressor is its air displacement. Makes small compressors look much more capable than they really are. The important bit for compressors is 'Free air delivery' which is the volume of usable air it delivers. This is usually around 1/2 to 2/3 of the displacement...

Fingers crossed! Two years to go for mine.

Look for one that's being dismantled & get the complete gearbox/transfer box assy incl bellhousing, drive shafts & chassis mounts. I'd suggest the clutch assy incl flywheel & starter motor so you've got the whole lot. Preferably with all the bolts. Isn't the LT95 transmission tunnel bolt in? Get...

The Classics - esp the early ones & the V8 - are basically Big Boy's Meccano sets. If something has been factory fitted to one then it shouldn't be much of an issue being able to find the necessary bits & pieces to retrofit that to an earlier one without the need to have specialised kits.

Got one of those on the crank pulley of my 3.5 Classic for the same wear reason. And on the input & output shafts of the steering box. No problems so far - steering box done several years ago & the pulley just before covid. Used them before on other stuff so no problems ETA I can't remember the...

Swinfield Cooper, Freeman's Common, Leicester. Indy LR specialist. Worth a call.

Try a hot air paint stripper on an inconspicuous area. Can often make plastics like that look good again. Don't go mad with the heat!

Is there an adapter in use with that red steering wheel? Standard wheel is on a solid splined shaft with a threaded end & uses a nut & washer to retain it - the photo makes it look as though there is a hole in the end of the shaft but that might just be the photo! According to LR cat the Disco...

Had the solenoid issue with my own. Which is a 1986 3.5EFi ZF auto. Click but no turn over of engine. Checked on the bench & it just span very gently, one in GWO needs holding down as it will try & dance all over the place! That said, don't assume the battery is good. Substitute a known good &...

Very smart!

Same dash as my '86 EFi except mine too is in MPH. Notwithstanding the LRcat part numbers if you check Rimmers you will see several stats listed for the Classic V8. They show the 88deg for 'cold climates' an 82deg as 'standard' and a 74deg for 'hot climates'. FWIW an 88 in mine (CA chassis)...

Yes. And hopefully you won't find any bigger rusty holes!

Take it you're using standard bulbs, not LEDs? These might help:

I had something very similar with my own - 1986 3.5EFi - which turned out to be the live feed wire. Old pump had failed - lots of noise before it died. Fitted the new & nothing. Bit of head scratching & out with the digital multimeter. Almost battery voltage showing at the connector in the...

Ah, my mistake. I assumed the OP might have a modicum of sense. But in this day & age that's perhaps not the best assumption :)

Connect the new one to a battery & see what happens.

This might help: www.v8developments.co.uk/preload.htm

IF - and it's a big IF - the battery is fully charged and in good condition try connecting a jump lead directly from the battery earth terminal to a good clean metal point on the block & see what happens. This would help to rule out a faulty earth.

The link I gave you says the lifters should be empty. They are hydraulic & the engine running (which drives the oil pump) will fill them with oil under pressure. If the oil is not under pressure then you will have no resistance when you press them as you are emptying any oil that's in them out...

In the absence of a manual for your system you'll be best tracing all the wires from the alarm & seeing where they go. It's common for many aftermarket systems for at least two of the car's systems to be interrupted by cutting a vehicle wire & splicing the appropriate pair of wires from the...