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Probably easier on the bench. You need to keep pressure on the seal as the lip goes in or it'll just keep popping out again & I think upside down under the car makes it more difficult. Be interesting to know how your mechanic goes about it. I just can't remember whether I did mine in situ.

Another thought. If you have a short piece of tube the same diameter as the hole the seal's going into you could try pushing the seal into that then offering it up to the hole & using another piece of tube to push the seal out of the tube into the hole. Similar sort of idea to a piston ring...

I take it you finally managed to get the circlip out :) Been a while since I did mine (used the blue seal & I'd used a speedisleeve on the shaft) & I've forgotten if there were any issues so you might find this of interest. He uses a screwdriver to get the outer lip in which I suspect is the...

www.roverparts.com/Techtips/Accumulator_Ball.cfm

That's an electronic dizzy - as in doesn't use points - and that's the amplifier on the side. The coil is on the n/s panels above the wheel. Can suffer from the amp getting too hot which leads to failure of the amp. LR did a kit to remotely mount the amp with the coil. The slightly earlier one...

Where you said. Chassis number should also be stamped on the front offside of the chassis by the suspension mounting & the steering box bolts.

Lrcat says the head bolts are all 7/16UNC. Lrcat

Probably get a better seal using grub screws - look better too:) Once you've got the thread size have a look on ebay. Assuming it's nothing exotic you'll probably get the set for the price LR want for one!

It's the 'Pulsair' system. This is as good a description as any: www.fordforums.com/threads/v8-pulsair-system.14910 Land Rover did blanking plugs to remove it. ETC6474. Famous Four do/did a set which are just a set of grub screws. No idea as to the size, but if you remove one of your pipes...

Rotor arm of the moulded in strip variety & not the riveted on strip type? This style: Lucas 35D V8 Rotor Arm Red with Powermax Technology (simonbbc.com) Not this type: MGB V8 ROTOR ARM GRA2133 (mgbhive.co.uk) Although I'd be inclined to think you'd have a misfire all the time if it was faulty...

The early EFis had the amp under the coil on the l/h inner wing. Later ones had it mounted on the side of the dizzy & affected by heat to the extent that LR came up with a kit to remotely mount it.

Must admit I was. But I had several 4CUs with different part number stickers on & that was what they came up with. It also went against this, who say they did notice a difference: Rover SD1 Efi Electronic Control Unit (ECU) (vintagemodelairplane.com) Lot of info on that site. Should keep you...

Thanks. This one? COMMON ECU FAILURES ON RANGE ROVER, CITROEN, MITSUBISHI AND OTHER EUROPEAN AND ASIAN CARS. (avilec.co.uk)

Please confirm which AFM & ECU combination you've got. Given it's a 3.5EFi I'm expecting it to be a flapper AFM & a 4CU ECU but conversion to the later hotwire isn't unusual. The flapper AFM is item 14 in this link: Lrcat The associated 4CU ECU has something of a reputation & the only way to...

Which Air Flow Meter and ECU does it have?

Now on the Range Rover forum www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/classic-1989-3-5-efi.383797/

Needs to be in the Range Rover section. Which AFM & ECU combination does yours have?

I assume so! My engine's always fired & run whilst I've still been spraying. Or just try crank & spray & stop when it starts to begin with.

When I've used it on the Sprinter I've always pulled the intercooler pipe off & directly into the manifold. Note that it is advised on the tin's label to squirt it in whilst the engine is being cranked - probably to stop the glow plugs igniting it!

Yes. I was just wondering if an extra jolt from easystart sprayed into the intake might help shift it.