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Thanks Discool. It was the return feed that I wasn't sure of. I'll need to find the part number for the radiator hose.

Rob - thanks for the photos. It looks like you've got the earlier front cover with the rear outlet for the heater. Incidentally, did you change the needles when you tried SUs on the 3.9 or did you stick with the originals? Cooltide - thanks for the photo as well. What do the hoses from the...

I'm planning to move the SU carbs from my 3.5 to the interim 3.9 which I'm rebuilding (I know the arguments for keeping EFI but for now I'd like to stick with carbs). The only problem that I can see at the moment is connecting the heater matrix pipe to the water pump (the pipe which runs...

As far as I know the suffix B indicates engines that had the later front cover with the crank driven oil pump and also composite head gaskets (with matching cylinder heads). The blocks are fundamentally the same and can be interchanged. I would guess that the H suffix on the V5c is a typing...

You'll need spacers unless you change the front hubs for most alloys. I put Boosts on my 1988 V8 110 this way. Also, not all Land Rover alloys are rated for the 110 so may be safer to stick with those that were a factory option.

That's true. I guess it depends on how much I want to avoid the risk of slipped liners. They seem fine at the moment.

If I get new top hat liners can I just get new rings?

Yes there is a ridge and if I put the rings in the bores the gap between the ends is higher than it should be so I guess that means I'll need a rebore or top hat liners. Glad to hear that pistons are oval when cold, explains what I was finding and also means I should be able to re-use my...

I'm currently doing by first engine rebuild on a 3.9 with an interim block. I though I'd check for bore wear by inserting the pistons upside down and seeing if there was any sideways movement. There was a small amount in one direction but a noticeable amount more in the other direction which I...

Very true, but some people claim that they've had them come loose so I thought no harm in going for a belt and braces approach given that they're hidden and not so easy to check occasionally.

I put Boosts on my 110 with drums and used the Flatdog spacers as they have the spigot (is that the right word) on them. Clean the hub surfaces so they're smooth and smear with grease, and put a dab of thread-lock on the spacer nuts to ensure they don't come loose behind the wheel where you...

Does it always make the noise regardless of wether it's in gear or not? Could it be the spigot bearing? There's not a lot else at the back of the engine that could make that sort of noise.

Can't really comment on that as, like you, I don't have evidence to the contrary.

I've just travelled 900 miles going from Bristol to Lake District, Scotland, Northumbria and back, towing a 1.5 tonne trailer with a roof tent on the top and got 18.4 mpg and that's from a bog standard, fairly worn 3.5 on carbs in a 110. Lowest I ever get is 17 mpg. Those are real numbers from...

I've got an 82 degrees thermostat in mine and measured with an infra red thermometer pointing at the thermostat housing it is pretty much spot on. My dash temperature gauge reads at the high end of normal but I'm assuming this is down to a poor earth or just an inaccurate gauge.

It's usually the bearings that go and you would be able to hear it before it completely lets go. Also, you would be able to feel some movement in the water pump pulley if it is the bearings. Other than that the gasket could have gone but that would probably only happen if the engine was...

Looks like your engine is a bit of mash-up of parts like mine. My engine block is also a 24G suffix B engine (which originally is a 90/110 detoxed engine). But the rest of mine is from a non-detoxed engine so it has less emission control stuff on it. Yours certainly has the RRC air filter as...

Mordzy, I have the same set up as you and I’ve also spent quite a lot of time trying to solve the same problems – low compression V8 running on SU carbs (so no restrictor plates) with LT85 gearbox (so no vacuum difflock to worry about) and running fairly well but felt severely low on power...

Mick, was that a factory fit relay? I've had two 110 V8's and neither had a relay. Also the wiring diagrams in the workshop manuals don't show one. But maybe they were fitted briefly as the safety laws changed.

Not sure about military ones but there's no relay on non-military ones. The oil pressure switch just provides an earth for the warning light when there's no pressure. One reason they wouldn't link the oil pressure switch to the fuel pump is to avoid problems where the engine would cut out if...