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You dont need to get the whole breather assembly. The new plastic cyclone separator is available from BMW dealers for about £18 as far as I can remember. The BMW part no. is 11 12 7 799 367. Dont know why the funny spacing but its like that on all their boxes. It might also be available at Euro...

Dont even think about it. The consequences of the front of the prop shaft dropping and jambing into the deck are too much to consider! The pinion shaft (output to the prop) in the IRD can be removed if it or the crown wheel have been damaged. The blanking plate then seals the IRD.

The important one is the crankcase breather, if this gets blocked then it can damage the turbo. The EGR blanking will give you marginal performance improvement. Its there for a purpose and thats to prevent nitrous oxides from being formed which are carcenogous.

The glow plugs are temperature controlled. They will not come on when the engine is warm, even on a first-start on a hot day. Probably the cam position sensor is not functioning.

Could be piston slap. This is usual and nothing to worry about. Aluminium i.e. pistons have three times the coefficient of thermal expansion of the iron bore liners, hence have to have a large clearance when cold otherwise they would jamb when then got hot at running temperature. Hence they slap...

The crankcase breather (filter) is BMW part no. 11 12 7 799 367 Either from BMW main dealer or Euro Car Parts may carry them. In case you dont know the engine is a BMW M47 which is useful when talking to either suppliers who dont know much about Freelanders.

There is a small gauze filter in the inlet to the high pressure pump. This may have become blocked and be causing your problem.

Sounds like a leaking injector. Do a search for injector leak test which is relatively easy to do. Another test is to spray a little Easy Start into to manifold by easing the jubilee clip which attaches the hose from the intercooler and then start it. If it continues to run smoothly then its...

The reason for the clicking is that when the starter solenoid closes the sudden demand for power reduces the voltage available and the solenoid drops out. As soon as it does the voltage increases and it again switches on causing the cyclic on/off procedure. The question is why is the voltage...

Some plates are included to spread the load over a larger area to reduce bending stresses. I am not familiar with the F.lander's mounting reinforcement but be sure that they can be omitted, especially towing a heavy horse box or you might find the anchorages breaking. (Its dark now and I am too...

If the scratch is deep it will have gone through the top coat and you will be looking at the primer. No amount of rubbing will remove such a scratch, as has been said you will rub down to bare metal. The scratch has to be carefully filled and then rubbed back to leave a smooth surface.

The fault is in the self parking circuit in the wiper motor. Either the contact which supplies power until the wipers have reached their parked position is not functioning or there is no power getting to the motor. First check that there is 12 volts getting to the motor at all times when the...

Could be a badly made pipe joint between the tank and the pump allowing ait to be drawn into the pipe. Pump then sounds as though it is priming all the time. Check the pipe connections, especally the one which pushes on to the pump.

This problem can occur do to air leaking into the pipes on the suction side of the pump. This is a high probability seeing that you have broken the connections. Carefully strip, clean and remake all joints between the tank and the pump. especially the quick disconnect joint. Make sure the...

Invest in Rave disc or Haynes manual if you are serious. They give a lot more essential informantion which you will need.

I had to crank it for ages but maybe for 4-5 secs before it would start. I noticed mine was taking longer than usual to fire up. Then it didn't fire at all! Turned out to be an injector leaking back. Easy to check, search for "Injector leak-off test".

@ vic.middleton This is a possibillty, I may just take it off give it a good clean, refit and see what happens. But I would have thought a good jet washing would have gotten rid of all or most of the crap.??? The build-up of dirt was in the grooves of the pulley which would be covered by the...

It could be the belt slipping on the alternator pulley. This is the one most likely to slip especially if you do a lot of stopping and starting. I recently had my belts off when replacing the crankshaft pulley which had debonded and was making a racket. Dirt had built up in the bottom of the...

So with a few revs and in 1st gear it "breaks" the bind with a CLONK and then is ok! This is a brake fault. The brakes are sticking on. They tend to stick more when they are wet. Confirm diagnosis by parking overnight with the brakes off, you should drive away with no clonk.n The problem...

phil y Would you like to tell us the type of code reader you have so that we might consider purchasing one?