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See my post to Defunct I thought it was a noisy timing chain at first. As without a damper there is a large oscillation superimposed on the normal rotation of the crankshaft it does give the timing chain a hammering.

The rattle could be from the crankshaft auxiliary drive pulley which makes quite a noise when it is shot. Since it is a harmonic damper the noise does vary with engine speed. In normal operation the pulley shows polishing marks on the depressed outer sector of the rim extending over an arc of...

Near side rear wheel bearing? A little play could be allowing the brake drum to rub the back plate.

You obviously have an early TD4 with the two-fuel-pump arrangement, one in the tank and the other in the engine bay, and it it the engine bay pump that is giving the problem. These small diameter pumps seem to have a limited life and give trouble after 60k miles or so. They seem to have low...

What is your oil consumption like? With no separator (filter) in the crankcase depression limiter you will have been drawing in oil from the engine instead of returning it to the sump. Youe EGR valve, manifold and associated plumbing will be in a gooey state. Get the newer centrifrugal type...

I have had starting problems caused by both the primary (LP) fuel pump and leaking injectors. The easy way to determine which is the cause is to use Easy Start. Ease the inlet manifold jubilee clip and spray a LITTLE into the manifold then start the engine. It will run which ever is wrong. If...

No you would not be correct. An internal fault in the front section of the IRD would still make a noise. Damage to the bevel gears may not make a noise depending upon its degree. A clunking noise suggests it may be the hypoid gear as this is the one which usually suffers distress due to VCU seizure.

How about the brake light switch?

Could be the CV joint at the IRD/propshaft interface.

This sounds more like a thermal problem to me, eg. a dirty/coroded connector who,s resistance changes when hot. I would look at the fuel pressure sensor connectors first. Clean them with a contact lubricant, much cheaper than expensive mechanical parts. There have been a problem with the fuel...

What is a "winding Noise"? Try and be a bit more explicit. Clunking from the back can be either the diff mounting bushes or the rear subframe attachment bolts. There are plenty of posts on both.

Approx location? Manual or auto box? Give us a bit more info.

The fuel pressure regulator has two O ring seals at its iinterface with the high pressure pump. RAVe says you only need to remove the starter motor to get to the screws hoding it. I would definitely try replacing these before you attack the HP pump and a local mechanic might have the appropriate...

Oil used in the IRD has a distinctive smell so could be this which is leaking. If it is, get the seal done quickly since the IRD does not have a large volume of oil in it and has some highly loaded (and expensive) gears in it. If it is one of the front drive shaft seals £80 is not an...

There are two main problems with veggie oil. Firstly it has a higher viscosity than deisel so to deliver the same flow rate the pressure required is higher, thus creating a higher load on the pump bearings. Secondly these oils lack the lubricity of mineral based fluids so that they do not...

Sounds like classic VCU siezure. Take off the prop shafts and drive it mondo if you cant fix it immediately.

The pinion housing can be removed without removing the IRD from the vehicle. I question the point of replacing only the rear bearing since if it is badly worn then the front bearng will also have suffered from the angularity in the shaft and also the debris from the rear rollers passing through it.

Surely the garage from where you bought it should fix this! Could be rear subframe bolt broken away due to the impact as the body stops due to the impact and the rear axle tries to continue moving. Its a fairly regular failing which you will find doing a search.

This is how Freelanders behave. It shows that the VCU is working correctly. In normal straight ahead movement there is little drive effort transferred to the rear wheels. When the front wheels spin because of loss of traction then there is a large speed difference across the plates of the VCU...

Could be the auxiliary drive pulley on the end of the crankshaft. This is also the torsional vibration damper for the engine and consists of two parts connected by a bonded rubber bush. If this fails the pulley oscillates and makes a rattling noise. I thought my timming chain was on the way out...