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Ok, just thought I'd give an update. The head seemed to be warped in the centre, and the engineers skimmed it, recut the valves, built it up and pressure tested it - all good. I cleaned everything up and refitted it today, did valve clearances etc, all turned over nice. Filled up the rad...

Ok cheers. I should get it into the engineers tomorrow, so will see what the score is. Thanks again (to all)

Thanks JM. In your experience, are there ever any issues with the valves getting too close to the pistons after skimming? Is there a minimum clearance between the face of the head and the underside of the valve?

Thats a new one on me........Stuff from the EU might be different. I might be wrong, but I have imported stuff from different countries, and the duty % depends on the type of goods. VAT still applies.

I know why, sorry if that sounded obvious.........I was more concerned that I am on a 3 hole already and need skimming........I may be on the limit. What is the absolute thickest gasket out there?

Cyprus, South Africa maybe.........Import duty and VAT is the usual deal breaker though. VAT goes on everything, including the shipping.

Ok, I've stripped the head, and I can see its warped using a straight edge, so will need machining. The old gasket is an Elring 3 hole (I think). Its got 3 holes punched along the edge in one corner and I mic'd it up at 1.5mm (although it was a fraction different in places). So it looks...

I would tend to disagree with the price Vs quality arguement there. Bearmach and Britpart etc make perfectly good quality parts for the average enthusiast...........don't get sucked into splashing out for a load of expensive kit that you don't need, unless you are going to do something a bit...

I have just had a similar problem. Basically I bought a second hand kit, and ended up with 2 sets of rear springs, which left the front sitting high. Basically the rears are heavier duty, and the fronts are softer, but can often be longer than the rears. Most lift kit springs (after I did my...

A full service history should be to hand..........if not, all someone has to do is buy a service booklet, and get a garage to stamp it. And it may have had a warranty engine replacement if it had a ful LR service history, which would have the LR dealer paperwork to show the replacement...

Thanks for the swift replys guys, much appreciated. I will inspect & strip the head tomorrow, and take it to the engineers on monday. I will check the old gasket thickness, and see if I need a 3 hole or whatever. Is there anything else I may need to know..........any other little...

If I had a shotgun I would be blowing my brains out right now! I did the P gasket on my 300TDI this morning........no problems. Job done and off i went up the motorway............Then, no hot air from the blower, and an overheating motor.......bollocks. Got off m/way, let it cool down and...

That wouldn't really explain your other problems though, fuel flap etc. Sounds like some damaged wiring somewhere, either chafffing on the chassis, or damaged from previous work maybe. Worth just getting underneath and having a look.

My old man had similar problems on his Ford Ranger. It was water ingress into the reverse sensors, which Ford did under warranty. It might be worth looking at to rule out.

The cheapy Chinese is what I had first off, which turned out to have a faulty voltage regulator, even though it was spanking new.....My mate couldn't get another one from the supplier in time, so thats why I ended up paying full price elsewhere. Our local Lucas Service place wrapped up a few...

Yes, sounds like you need to swap the two around (constant live and ignition live). Aftermarket stereos are as above (yellow constant 12v and red igntion live), but a genuine LR radio might be different.....

Can't believe that.......what did you travel to the shop in? A frigging time machine?..........That is seriously cheap.

Sounds about right for your average motor factors. I just paid £150 from a local LR specialist near me in Hants. The first one I bought, I got for trade price through a mate, which was £70 cost price......but this was a cheaper exchange unit, and turned out to be faulty, even though it was...

Is it a LR unit or aftermarket? Is the feed from the wires you described, the actual wires from the vehicle or wires from a multi-pin harness that connects into the vehicle's wires?

Sounds more like water trapped somewhere.........any fluid leaks? How are your levels?