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Right, the garage are going to do the job again in a week or so. I just need to be clear and give the garage a few pointers when assembling the rear end. When doing main bearing, remove main bearing, do not use T seals, just use sealant around joints. Use sealant on both sides of crankseal...

Yes. Basically I fitted a new (non-genuine) seal (with some silcone grease :doh:) when I did the engine rebuild, with no sealant behind, and got a leak. The garage fitted a new genuine LR seal, and put sealant behind it with a new gasket, and new T seals with sealant and are confident it was...

Ok thanks JM, I was worried I was missing some dowty washers somewhere......cheers

Ok thanks mate.........where are the dowty seals?

Thanks JM. Ok, so is it best to use a 200tdi gasket with the 300tdi seal then? Also, if I have this done again, will it be ok to use the new seal again that has just been fitted, or should I buy another one? Cheers James.

JM, can you tell if the oil can pass the main bearing faces where it meets the block. I gave the garage new T seals, and they said they sealed them in with sealant, and are confident its ok, but if the crankseal is ok, then this must be the only oil path left? is that right?

There is a tiny leak from the sump joint which is clearly visible, and I get a slight drip from the bellhousing inspection/flywheel timing hole. The job cost £390, which was to remove/refit g/box to do crankseal, and remove the sump and do the T seals, refit. Garage charges £50 hr (+ VAT)

Ok, this is doing my head in. The garage has done the rear seal.........genuine LR part and gasket, sealant used. 'T' seals done and sealant used. Sump put back with sealant, and all was good at first, but started to leak after a few miles and a bit of running around. There are couple of...

The only reason I havent considered using leak seal, is that all of the gaskets and 'O' rings are new. I thought leak stop just 'plumped up' old seals. Plus after a full engine rebuild, I wanted it done right, after all the time and effort..........But, if push comes to shove, I will drop a...

Just to update, I gave the Disco to a garage I know and trust, to remove the g/box and do the seal. I don't have the means to take out the g/box on the drive at home (the engine was difficult enough). On inspection, the garage said that the seal was ok, and that the gasket behind was...

£150 is cheap. Most places quote £250+ in labour to do a clutch, which you should also do while its out. I would do the rear crank seal as well for another couple of quid.

I run 255/70/16 Cooper Discoverer STTs, which are an offroad tyre with good road manners, and its about as big as you can go without any rubbing with a 2" lift, or need ing to trim arches. The overall diameter isn't much more than stock, so it doesn't notice in performance. I don't do any...

I've got one, with t/fer box. £100 its yours, but i'm in Southampton mate, which is a bastid..........it might be worth posting on the courier service thread.......you never know, some folk might be able to help.

Get a 100A one, they are the same size. Get the best you can afford. Cheap=****e in my experience with alternators. Had a faulty one straight out the box. And my £150 one is noisy already in under a year (although it got a bit wet). An overhauled genuine Magnetti Marelli is a good bet, or...

Thanks for the swift reply JM. It went on tight, but I didnt pry it, just a smear of silicone grease to help it over the shoulder. Bolts all went in ok, it all seemed central. I dont know if it was genuine or not. Just got it from an independent Landy place. It didnt leak straight off...

I have just put my freshly rebuilt 300TDI engine back in, and have oil coming from the bellhousing inspection/timing hole. I totally rebuilt the motor, all new gaskets etc including the rear seal, which seemed to go in fine, gasket behind it etc, no worries............except now there is a...

I would ideally like a complete Southdown snorkel kit for my Disco 1 300tdi. Would consider Safari and other makes. Not worried if its tatty or whatever. I also have a few 300tdi parts to p/x if someone needs something..........I am in Southampton Cheers

Its ok if you are methodical, and a Haynes helps. Specialist tools are a pin to lock off the pump, which can be a 3/8" drill bit or a piece of pipe which i can give you, and a 3/16" drill to locate in the flywheel timing slot. And a skinny flat 32mm spanner (ground down is easiest) to undo the...

Yes the garage will want to do the pump, as they will do the belt, probably tell you that you need the tensioner upgrade etc etc..........probably not much change from a grand with a recon pump.

Is (or was) the pump on factory settings or did you (or someone else) tweek it? If you can, put it back to factory settings, and go from there. When did you last change the air filter?