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Definately no need to replace the clutch then. If there are no other clutch related symptoms then leave well alone.

My advice - get a second opinion. Best bet is to just have the master and slave cylinders replaced, with new fluid, I can't see why the clutch would need changing if a cable tie has solved it. Sounds like the plastic has just aged and is going brittle. It's essential to have both repaced with...

If you cut the chassis (as in lop a lump off and shorten it, rather than cur rusty bits out and replace them) then to stay legal for the road it has to be checked along the iva/sva rules (or whatever it is these days) as a radically altered vehicle. Just cutting the back off to make a pick up is...

Could just be a collapsed pedal shaft bearing, or the master cylinder connection breaking up. Get under the dash with a torch and have a look at the pedal shaft, grab the clutch pedal and give it a good wiggle. Also look where it's bolted too (the actual pedal bracket) as it could be a fracture...

Hmmm, does it do it when stationary with engine running? Possibly a gear shift linkage drying out, although it does sound clutch related :( it's a hydraulic release system with an external slave cylinder. Does the bite point feel like it's changed at all? Sorry, for all the questions, but I work...

All body mounts (obviously) rad, brake lines, center console out, rear seat belt to chassis mounts, handbrake cable filler hose, coolant pipes to bulkhead, engine wiring loom, steering column, any earth straps. Think that is all.....oh, onenof these helps too

Depends on what you mean by a clunk. When you push the clutch, or when taking up drive? Have you had any work done on the clutch recently?

Recessed led lamps or x-lites :)

If you want to go one better, get the jets off a peugeot 407 as they give a brilliant fan pattern that doesn't clog up

The 5 pot engine is smoother than a 4, due to the way the crank works. On a 4 pot motor it wobbles around a lot due to the firing angles or something like that

It would be worse when warm due to thermal expansion. What make of clutch was it? Was the fork replaced as well? I know the r380 suffers more from the punch through problem than the lt77, but still a possibility. Maybe get hold if a bore scope to have a look internally before pulling it apart...

Yep. The policy I have actually welcomes mods (not flux either) weighed in at just over 300 quid fully comp

Oh, and where does the tmax pick up the ign trigger from? Can't remember off top of my head. I know the x-eng kit uses the trigger for the dash lamp on the alternator.

Sounds like a wiring fault, or possibly a dodgy solenoid to me. Only problem I have ever had with mine is corroded terminals on the battery connections to the solenoid leading to the aux battery not charging.

You would probably be best off trying the dyna beads rather than stick on weights for the balancing. Much better for big re moulds that can be a #### to balance properly. It's not just re moulds, mate of mine had enormous fun balancing some brand new bfg muds not long back, think the one...

Actually they do...within the swivel ball is a normal cv joint arrangement which does wear out over time and cause a clicking noise on lock.

There was a guy on lr4x4 who installed a vgt on his defender for about a third of the price of the allisport one. Can't remember what it was off though. ..

Have been looking for ages round this area with little luck unfortunately (Aber is only 20 mins down the road). There us a group in hereford (who's name escapes me) that do go out on organised tours in small groups. Maybe worth a Google to find them.

Currently got boost and egt gauge in mine. Boost one is in a small pod on the rh side of the instrument cluster, and egt is in a custom built pod in the rh centre air vent

I usually get lro, but depends in the cover. If it looks like the contents maybe a bit dull, I won't buy it. Which reminds me, must get the December issue as I get a mention in the disco buyers guide :)