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Never managed to get the filler plug out on any of mine, usually I leave to top swivel pin out and fill through there with 1 shot stuff.

Refill and bleed the system. If there is a flexi hose in the line, clamp it off and then press the clutch pedal. If it sinks to the floor then it's the master cylinder. LuK are an excellent oe brand, however, the LR clutches they sell are made by Valeo, who are OE supplier to LR :)

Yes because the breather from the cylinder head feeds into the intake hose from the airbox. You should only have a max of about 1mm of play in the turbine in the turbo.

You could probably make a tool from an old rad cap to do the same job. Drill hole in top, insert a tyre valve (the whole rubber thing from underneath) seal with some araldite/silicone, then use a tyre inflator on low pressure to pressurise the coolant system. Probably as low as 10psi, simples.

It's not essential to remove the quarter panels, just easier. You need to undo the rear mounts (unless they have fallen off :) ) as well as the ones at the back of the sills, and the two seat belt bolts under the rear floor. Then carefully lift the rear body. I found the easiest way was two...

This is on my old one (now retired) although have the same bar and spots on current disco - 8 or 9" I think. Got them from local Bearmach agent. Think they were about 30 quid with the wiring, running H3 nightbreakers in them.

About 450 ish between fill ups. 300 tdi, raised suspension, 85 series AT's, few bolt on bits plus pump tweak and big intercooler....about 25mpg doing the work run which I mostly B roads and C roads round here, so not much in the way of cruising speed. Quite happy with that, could be better...

Always (and I mean always) had grossly over inflated quotes off AF in the past, more than double the eventual policy I got off Gwynn Wood, was even more expensive than the local NFU

Britpart supply valeo oe parts in there own boxes

Valeo are oe for Landrover so are your best bet. Whatever you do, DO NOT get a solid flywheel conversion, unless you want to destroy your gearbox/engine

You can weld galv, but it gives off highly poisonous fumes. Plus you need to grind off the galv where it has to be welded. Better off having the sills etc replaced then getting the bottom half of the shell dipped

I thought it was weird being 99 model year, but having all the trademarks of a 2004 model with all the face lift bits fitted.

It is actually a 2004 model according to my dvla lookup, auto.

It would be unusual to have the rear facelifted as well, due to the work involved. Take the chassis number (or log book) to a dealer. It may have a private plate on there from a previous owner.

Was posted as a response to a question in the discovery owners club forum

Just checked the other forum, 44 quid each including vat, delivery on top. Email [email protected]

It said to email them for information, probably waiting to have the website updated. Think they were a bit under 100 quid for the pair including vat.

Condensation on the inside is due to internal damp. Have you removed the under floor sponge? You could try leaving it in a heated workshop with a dehumidifier inside it. Saying that, when I had mine in bits, the interior never dried out despite being baked in the summer heat.

Have just seen on another forum that spanner monkeys are now selling inner rear quarter panels for the Disco 1 :) another common rot point catered for.

Cream ones are a pita to get hold of. Only used for about the last 18 months of production or so. Grabbed 2 when they came up on ebay when I got my 97 plate to try and cure electrical problems, most of which turned out to be symptoms of knackered relays.