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Another thing that'll leave you stuck at 50 is if the boost pipe between the turbo and injection pump is missing or leaking as it won't be getting enough fuel...

I'm sure I have read a number of threads where people have managed to buy 'their' Landy back off the insurance company that own it. Basically your landy was stolen over 15 months ago, the insurance company would have paid out the original owner for their loss. This means the land rover you...

When I did my transfer box swap I had the input gear out of the transfer box which makes it a lot easier to do. Might be worth trying if you still have problems after wiggling your flanges like James suggests. The input gear can be taken out easily through the access plate where the PTO would...

Unfortunately they are actually stored on the forum.

Bugger! sorry about that, I didn't realise that section of the forum is only viewable by members. My apologies for wasting your time. :( Basically it's a bloke that is currently building one.... has a few pictures of the build up and apparently he'll be putting a lot more pictures up later...

There's an ongoing build thread on here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65212

No offence guv but you will probably get more help with a more descriptive title, stating what age of vehicle you have and the part number of the seal you bought. Good luck :)

Yep, that's pretty normal. If you chock the wheels and let the hand brake off the back will do the same.

That's a fairly meaty looking guard :-)

I'm feeling tempted to strip down a TD5 speedo to work out how it works, we do a bit of work on embedded systems at work so it would be interesting. Anyone know where I can get a cheap one? or how much it 'should' cost for a used one.

Where was the boost meter fitted? Although more difficult it would be best to check boost pressure at the inlet manifold to prove the full path.

Lol, I was referring back to Not sure my sister would take to kindly to me posting her pics on forums ;-)

My mistake, I apologise for the misinformation :( I'm surprised nobody has put any info about reprogramming the td5 speedo's on the web, they have been around long enough. I'm tempted to buy one and work it out, except there are more pressing issues on my 110 than replacing a currently working...

The electronic speedos still allow the different coloured gears, it's just now there is a transducer instead of the end of a spinny cable connected to them and then it's wired back to the speedo, apparently doesn't go anywhere near the ECU. A little bit of googling suggest that Digidash Mileage...

All might not be lost, the TD5 speedo is electronic if what I've read is true. Electronic speedos count pulses rather than revolutions, much the same as rev meters do. Anyway most guages have some kind of fine adjuster that they use to calibrate them in the factory, it is usually accessible...

When you say hidden number under the P/S footplate are you referring to the vin number you can see by looking under the wheel arch (after lots of scraping) or do you mean you have to remove the p/s box to see it?

Or the manifold gasket .....

Is my sister safe then? ;-)

If you weld a thick washer rather than a nut you'll have more chance of getting a good weld on the bit of bolt that is left, the heat will hopefully break whatever is holding the bolt. The only thing that can be left holding the drive member on is rust or sealant as far as I can see. Not that...

Is there a chance where the bolt sheared that it has actually left a bit that is still wider than the hole if you see what I mean? It may be worth trying to drill it slightly, just 1 or 2 mm but with a large drill bit. Have a look at one of the bolts that did come out and see if it looks like...