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Yes I put a 1.003 transfer box out of a 3 speed auto on to a LT77 box in a RR I had at the time, because I had fitted a Perkins 4236 T and it was very slow revving at 3000 rpm, but I remember still getting a ton out of it.:D

Very easy and you can do it in a day or less. :)

Just really unlucky,must have suffered metal fatigue on one of the spot welds and then on braking up shreaded the belt at the same time. Just changed my 300 tdi belt last week as well.:(

Yes the remainder of the worn splines would strip not the shaft snapping, thats what I ment. Your right about just replacing the gear being a bodge. For me I pull a trailer with a couple of tons on it and I dont want to chance it. My last gearbox had less than a quarter of its splines remaining...

More likey the vicous coupling in the prop was seized. Just removing the prop is a cheap use for now trick. I am no expert on freelanders but thats the most common problem. Replace prop with a good vicous coupling and go from there. :welcome2:

As I said bigger springs at the rear. Are you sure the fronts heavier, theres alot of vehicle from the back of the engine to the rear of the vehicle.

Clutch kit with fork £80 and a couple of days to do it your self for free. No flywheel needed on a 300 tdi. A good self employed mechanic would charge about £200. :)

Common for the main shaft splines on the gearbox to wear and the transfer gear that slides over the splined shaft to wear on LT77 and R380 boxes. Changing just the gear will take 50% of the wear out but the worn splines on the output shaft will wear the new gear at a fast rate . Also the worn...

My understanding is the bigger ones go at the back as thats heavier than the front.

It will get as hot as the t box. I adjust the hand brake adjusting bolt on the back plate until the brake drum wont turn then back off the bolt a turn and a half.

Slack in the transmission . The wife's RR has this thump. Its had a diesel fitted and slowing the idle down sorts it out as there's less drag on the transmission.

I've seen lots of home made RR pick ups over the years and they look home made and a bit crap to be blunt. Once you've gone to all the effort it's value is probably less than the original vehicle. :)

Today I fitted a s/h R380 and transfer box to my 2 door classic. Welded some extra metal on to the clutch fork as well. Also fitted a s/h LT77 oil cooler system from a 3.9 classic to my R380 to keep the box cooler when towing. Had to remove the rad to fit the oil cooler pipes so fitted a...

Unless its stuck open causing bad running its a waste of time and makes no difference If you want to stop it working pull the vacuum pipe off. :welcome2:

When I changed my cam belt I used drill bits and tip ex. The bottom pulley bolt is very tight and must be re-tightened very tight. ;)

Soft is about right for standard old hoses,but splits or hole and you will lose power from loss of boost and increase black smoke.

Sounds right, mine start whistling as the turbo spools up and then it start to pull harder as the extra fuel device is activated.

If your pump has not been messed with then your not getting enough air and then you would have also mention that the performance was bad.

It should not be bad full stop,black smoke is excess fuel and that's where your fuels going.

If the waste gate was stuck open the turbo would not spool up and progress would be very slow