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Sorry guys, don’t know the correct name/part number of the seal in the centre of the image, td5, 2004, how loose should this be? I can rotate it with my fingers! Should it be replaced?

First dry fit.

Must get a file brush, didn’t know they existed. Cheers all.

To be fair, I wouldn’t trust it as a weld, it did feel like just gap filling but the end result is ok for locker door. Finished as above, gave it a grit blast to unify the texture ahead of some paint. A few pin holes but when the respray happens these can be sorted.

No not the paper storage or data types. Metal ones. I’ve been doing a bit work lately with Aluminium, was wondering how pro’s in the metal industry keep them clean. Wire brushing keeps the courser ones clean but what about the fine ones and needle files? Any tips appreciated.

Yes it is the practice piece. It’s just a small hatch door. 220x270mm ish. Folded sides so it has a bit integrity already. Hinges and a lock next.

Will it do for a Landy camper locker side door? Practice piece, roughly filed up, rattle can Matt black to see how it could look! Not really a structural joint, more gap filling!

What’s the aluminium spool for Migs intended use?

Cheers, I’ll have a go. If it’s a failure over to a pro. That’s a challenge at the mo with lockdown and all.

Mig. No separate gun, just the machine feed.

I’m not a welder, but it’s a skill I’d like to have. Small checker plate door with a fold on each edge resulting in a metre butt at each corner about 25mm long, see picture. Plan to weld the corners with my small Clarke 100amp unit. Will practice lots before on scrap pieces. Should I approach it...

Silicone duct with sprung coil, rated to 70 degrees it said, for the fixed runs. Have a D3 eberspacher, from a refitted NHS ambulance, bench tested and working fine, not tested the longer hose run yet.

This only needs to be a stat to work.

Anything in mind? I’ll google it.

Heater mounted in a box in rear wheel arch, ducting, sleeved inside a SS flue liner to the face of the second row seat bulkhead via 2 directional closable vents. Want the air-port to go just behind the second row door in the triangular panel, via a T in the main duct. Return air to the heater...

Easy, send her out to turn it off! Think an option to have a secondary controller might be available. Could do a plug and play socket.

Similar to Devon4x4 set up below but not hidden by a number plate flap.

I’ve got the heater, going to mount it inboard, split the outlet, one for inside the 110, one to heat the roof tent. Trying to find a port (that I can mount through the landy skin) with a cap/flap that I can plug a hose into, to run up to the tent. Something with a bayonet type connection maybe...

Was wondering on a hose type to use to transfer the heater air from the unit up to a roof tent? There’s a few out there but was looking for one that’s maybe 60mm dia as to not take up much space when not in use.