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I used a cheapo from ebay a few years ago and it lasted for 6 months or so until I sold the car. No idea how much longer it lasted but fixed the fault at the time.

If you can get it off the old one without breaking anything then go for it.

Pull off the propshaft and see what you think. It will only take an hour or two and you can do it with standard 1/4" sockets and a couple of spanners. If I remember correctly an 8mm socket fits the torx at the front well enough to hold it while you loosen the nut with a spanner and a 10mm fits...

I'm assuming you have a FL1 TD4 as talking about low and high pressure pumps. The TD4 throttle pedal is electronic so it sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU will not let the car rev if there is something badly wrong but it's not likely to be the pedal.

I don't like to push my luck with the support plate the wheel cylinder is bolted too. I'd probably end up wrecking it.

The one I have came from B&Q but is basically the same. It is great for sanding and grinding those awkward places like the bolt in a wheel cylinder. This one is great value too as I'm sure I paid more for mine a year or two ago.

There is no anti roll bar in the rear so they just cocked up and sent the wrong thing.

I use a power finger file to grind the heads off wheel cylinder bolts. Only takes a couple of minutes and no swearing required. Something like this will save hours of grief. https://ebay.us/8BV6CX

I'm assuming you have an FL2 so not familiar as no rear ALB on FL1 but shouldn't they both be the same length? In any case when changing them make sure you jack up BOTH front wheels and it will be much easier. First time or two I did the job I struggled big time as only jacked up one wheel.

Ain't you got a K series in the MG?

Good luck with the new car. If you're handy and don't mind a bit of work then refurbing the VCU yourself is absolutely doable.

It didn't happen if we can't see the photo's and videos! 😊 Well done mate, I'm sure you also get a kick out of driving past folk who can't understand why it's so quiet.

Bigger bolts are two short and one long grunt, smaller just a grunt or two.

Drove it for the first time in over a week. Had to jump start it as the 12V battery is bad and the voltage was low but was able to do that with an old 12V 3Ah sealed lead acid battery. One of the perks of no ICE. :p

I spoke too soon. :( Got in the car this morning and the roof liner was sagging on me bonce again. I suspect I'll need to remove the powdered foam this time.

You can buy them but they are expensive so it would be cheaper to buy a contactor with the economiser built in. Some guys use a resistor and capacitor in parallel then connected in series with the contactor. When you apply 12V (or really 14.4V) the capacitor behaves as a short circuit across...

7kW would be nice, I'm using the Outlander OBC (on board charger) which is only 3kW.

I think they use full voltage to energise the contactors and ensure they close correctly then reduce the voltage to prevent them overheating. You can buy contactors that have economisers attached to the side of them and will do this for you. A year or two ago I measured the current drawn by the...

This is the thread about Contactor economisers https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3636&hilit=contactor For my build I bought contactors from China with economisers built in but if you want to use yours it is better to have a way to reduce the current.