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Hi All Rebuilding transfer case and hit a snag. With no shim, just the thrust washers, I get about 9 thou of endfloat. With my thinnest shim (6 thou) in place as well, I get 3 thou. Anyone got any advice - shim in or shim out? Is it critical? Thanks very much Andrew Palmer

Ah - well that is encouraging. If the wheel bearings drop to bits eventually I will use decent replacements. In the meantime, I will rebuild the gearbox to save myself pain later on. Thanks for your help and advice.

Now you've got me worried about my Britpart wheel bearings in my newly rebuilt axles..... :-(

Yeah - I think I've pretty much come to that conclusion. Probably worthwhile doing it now while I have the chance. I'll put in an order with my bearing supplier and see how many they can do. At least it should all come to pieces easily enough!

Yep - I did my gearbox with Britpart bearings throughout. It is still sitting on the bench undriven, waiting for the transfer case rebuild. I look at it from time to time and wonder whether I should strip it down again and replace all the Britpart with SKF/Timken or whatever, as it will never...

Thanks James. I did wonder about whether they were actually worth swapping out, as they still run very nicely and the shaft is hardly worn at all.

I am looking for new roller bearings for my intermediate gear (LR part no. 599869). I have managed to source all of the other bearings for the transfer case from my local bearing supplier so I have ended up with quality Japanese or USA products instead of the Britpart rubbish. Trouble is, I...

Thanks guys. I have a tank each side, so I should get pretty good at fitting them once I have done both!

Hi - I have a similar question, having now got around to putting the tank back in my 88". On mine, using a new fitting kit, the special (round) washer is too large to fit comfortably under the bolt head on top of the flange of the outrigger. It fouls the web of the outrigger and pushes the...

Got the kit. Looked to be pretty much the same quality as the earlier incorrect LR kit. Fitted and staked the valves. Popped the diaphragm in and gave it a twist to lock. Lid back on and it all seems to work OK. The manual recommends a bath in paraffin (kerosene) and various tests so I'll...

Yep - that looks to be about the same as mine. Either retarded or advanced but not fully correctable. If I recall, I just used some Loctite and torqued the bolt up to the correct figure from the manual... Certainly I did not have a pregunked bolt. I now live in fear of having got this wrong...

Managed to find a source here in NZ for the correct service kit, and placed an order today. But a) it isn't OEM and b) it hasn't arrived yet, so I live in hope..... Of course it was also about 3 x the price of the original LR kit, but that's the price to pay for living down here.

Couple of things wrong: Gasket for glass bowl is knackered. Diaphragm is split. Oil seal beneath the diaphragm is buggered. Unfortunately the parts kit does not include the glass bowl gasket. Equally unfortunate is the fact that the kit also comes with the wrong diaphragm for my pump. There...

Thanks guys. Valuable opinions as usual. The carb is not far off back together. The normal rubbing down on a piece of glass took out the twist in the body castings (at least for now). Major headache now is the fuel pump rebuild kit. I shelled out for the genuine Land Rover item and the one...

Pulled my 36IV to bits last night. The main choke spindle is pretty worn at its inboard end. The bush it sits in is blind so no air can get past, but I was wondering if wear of this magnitude indicates replacement. Of course, only the throttle spindle is included in the rebuild kit, not the...

Hi Joe Yes - Well, armed with this new knowledge I gave mine a good pull this evening and out it popped. No chance whatsoever of it falling out by accident! It was a little corroded but cleaned up a treat. That link is excellent, thanks for posting. Cheers Andrew

Hi Joe_M Did you ever get this resolved? I took my carb to pieces last night and where the manual said "be careful that the accelerator pump does not drop out" I found that I could not remove the pump at all. It was nice and springy, but was NOT coming out. I wondered if you ever sorted...

Thanks for the interest and replies guys. I think I can spread the double bracket enough to get the two pivot bolts in back to back. Or having now given it a bit of thought, I may go for a longer length of threaded rod and screw a decent amount of it into one seat back, put the seat in place...

I put the gearbox rebuild to one side over the weekend and had a look at the seats I've bought. These are the Britpart Deluxe seat set with the headrests on the driver & passenger seats. The mounting at the bottom of each side of the seat backs appears to be a captive 1/4" UNF nut in a metal...

I was mulling this over in bed last night and figured that there would have to be at least some endfloat on the 3/4 synchro for the reason that James has just given. Thanks very much guys. I'll continue to put it back together and give her a drive around the paddock for a test as soon as I get...