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Already done all that Flossie mate. I'll have to upload a picture of my special adjustment tool which makes it a doddle. There is probably not enough play currently as I have it hard up, but I was going to adjust it all properly when the floors in.

I can't adjust the pedal to the book as I don't have the floor in at the moment, but I adjusted it fully in each direction with no difference in results.

Good call Kwakerman. You might be onto something there. I hope your wrong though. I did have a bit of a fight getting the gearbox back so damaging the spigot is a possibility. I did not change it. Come to think of it, there was one in the clutch kit but I forgot about it :( The bit that's...

I renewed the fork (wth HD one) flexi pipe, slave and master about a year ago. This time around, I've changed the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and master cylinder. The only parts I've not changed are the slave and master cylinder. You're going to say it's the slave :) The flexi...

All back together with new clutch. Replaced master cylinder. Can't engage any gears with engine running. Can force 3rd and 4th but very notchy going in. Can change easily with engine off. When letting the clutch up in gear, the take up is very smooth and clutch action feels normal. Clutch...

I meant to say, after polishing, it will need sealing with wax. Lot of work that!

Traffic film will strip off the wax leaving a dull appearance. You could try waxing a small area - it will probably improve it a little but dull paintwork needs to be polished to make it shine. The best bet would be to try polishing in an inconspicuous area like behind a spare wheel to see...

Thanks. Any particular reason (just trying to increase my mechanical understanding).

Now then, finally got my gearbox reattached :) When fastening the belhousing, is there any difference between using 17mm nuts with washers or flange nuts which have a 15mm head?

I think the staple is only there to keep it all together for assembly. A worthy modification whilst your in there is to secure clutch rod clip to fork with a couple of cable ties.

I trimmed my side locker doors down. You don't need to remove much metal - only about 10mm and it does not affect the function.

Looks very handy that. Does anyone have the plans please?

After hours of trying yesterday I loosened the clutch pressure plate off and re-centered the clutch just in case. After that, I had to give up for the day because I could not get the right position with the gearbox and I was running out of energy :) Probably always best to have an assistant on...

BTW, I'm just about ready to cry trying to get my gearbox to mate with the engine :) I've done it before and I don't know why I don't remember it being a problem last time. Spent all day on it yesterday on it.

I'm with Flossy. I've had mine out twice with a lump hammer. Make sure you protect it with a block of wood. I thought getting it back in would be a nightmare, but I just greased it and tapped it evenly back into place on each side.

Can't wait.

I've come unstuck before doing jobs that don't need to be done. I'll have put less than 20k on the clock since I fitted it, so I'm going to trust my gut instinct and leave it alone. I'm convinced my original failure was the MC.

Got the flywheel off before and there's no evidence of oil behind it. Rear crank seal looks good. Thoughts anyone?

Robbie, you could maybe also lower the vehicle. Take the wheels off and have the chassis sitting on blocks of wood. You could also strap down the front suspension to help as it rises up quite a bit with the engine out.