I recently had my front wheel bearings out. Mine is the old style two nut system. The nut closest to the bearing on the drivers side was finger tight. The one on the passenger side took a breaker bar to loosen!
Just to feedback on the thread and say thanks to all who've helped along the way, as always.
Having done one side, I flew through the other.
I've bled the system a good few times, front and back. One of my rear cylinder bleed screws was stripped so I've welded a nut onto it. Not the prettiest...
Did you fit OEM engine mounts? The pattern ones tend to be very hard rubber and not good at absorbing vibration.
I had a set of OEM ones to put on mine but I snapped one as Haynes has the wrong torque values in it so I'm still running on rock hard pattern ones.
Mine are very poor at dampening...
Thanks for the help all. The last of my parts arrived Sat but I was away for most of the weekend so I had a go on Sun. I've done one side, it was really slow going as I had to keep checking everything but I expect the next one to be much quicker!
One thing that I did notice was that the...
Thanks Dag. I don't have any old bearings. The bearings that I've seen so far look good. The insides of the hubs were nice and clean with plenty of grease.
I've got Cortego replacements. Do you think it's worth freezing them? Not sure if that would damage them.
The caliper are a small part of the job. Changing the discs is the bit that's added a fair bit of work. It's all the little things that add up like cleaning the bolts and holes.
I would appreciate any advice on my above post re seals.
Frustratingly I'm still waiting for half my parts to arrive. Hopefully they will be here today.
I've watched quite a few videos covering this job. I ordered replacement hub seals and mine do look a bit manky. They are the type with a double lip where they face into the stub axle.
Do you...
I removed mine from my old radiator and put them in my new one. As you suggested, it was with a large deep socket and a breaker bar. I think I used PTFE tape on the threads before putting them in the new rad. Had to go steady putting them in as it's an aluminium one.
You're probably done with this, but if I remember correctly, when I did mine, I drifted them out a little from through the injector holes (or possibly glow plug holes) until enough stuck out to pull them with pliers.
Chassis looks very nice. When I had my 2.5 NA, I developed a sudden keen interest in geography. I found all manner of routes that I never knew existed. All were as flat as possible :)
Yeah, you will really struggle with the 1.2 ratio t/box on the 2.5 NA. It's 1st and 2nd gears only that are lower on the military gearbox. You will find it will be a huge leap from 2nd to 3rd, so you're going to be crawling on any inclines. After I converted to a 200 TDI, I changed to 1.2 and...
Slightly off topic, but I have a couple of questions re the top swivel bolts. Disconnecting the brake bracket was difficult for me to to the many layers of paint in this area. Better than rust :)
During the process, I must have dislodged the swivel ball seal slightly as it lost a lot of...
I meant in terms of I don't know what a good caliper looks like if you see what I mean. I've read about pitting on the calipers but mine are going to need a lot of cleaning before anything like that would be apparent.
It's a late model 110 originally fitted with a 2.5 NA diesel. As it's ex-mod, I don't know exactly.
Looking at the Section 70, Page 4 WSM Book 4, it uses the later style calipers - the ones with the long wire type anti-rattle spring.
Are Britpart calipers really ok James - never through I would...
I went to change the brake pads on my 110 and I'm not happy with the pistons. Some have slight end corrosion but appear to work fine, others with a slightly sticky action.
Bearmach calipers are about £100 the pair. OEM's are about £240 the pair.
I'm assuming I will need to go OEM but thought...