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not pistons contacting valves is it?

if it were low on refrigerant the compressor would not kick in to run at all.

sounds like it could be the ceramic followers driven by the swash plate that push & pull the the pistons in and out are wornout from lack of oil, if so a new pump will be needed and a very thourough clensing of the entire system.

Tell him the auto is far better choice, save ya some headaches it would.

The possibility of failure through reusing torque to yield bolts is very high, especially on a head gasket, it puzzles me why anyone would risk all that time, expense and effort they put into rebuilding the top of an engine, for the cost of a few new bolts, they would be the cheapest component...

As David says, you gotta tighten down ya head bolts by degrees, in stages, not torque. Because you are using “torque to yield bolts,” they are made different, to suit modern engine design, most are now using this system. The old way of torque each bolt by tension wrench was done...

Is this it? DaimlerChrysler is set to recall some 260,000 Jeep Grand Cherokees due to reports of breaking cooling fan blades and seat fires. The issue with the seats has so far apparently caused 32 Vehicle fires. The problem seems to be with some 112,000 Jeep Grand Cherokees 2003/2004 which...

That would be the "Donut" coupling. before you pull it apart mark the flanges of prop shaft and diff for alignment so they go back same way. be sure to get a new pin and bush as well as rubber coupling, pin is a prick of a thing to remove, but you'll work it out i'm sure.

relays under passenger seat access from side just below seat rail, the pressure switch piggy backs on the pump motor body should be a green colour. just had a look on ebay there is a brand new pump still in its vacuum sealed bag for a few hundred £.

One of two things, the relay is stuck on, or the pressure switch on the pump is buggered. pressure switch is not able to be purchased without pump I don't think.-

Had same problem some years back, after some research bought a set of Lucas pads and been noise free ever since.

Check turbo hose not delaminating, have a good poke all around inside hose as sometimes very hard to see, it will only collapse when suction applied.

may also suggest to use some inhibiter by the look of the impeller

there's a message in there somewhere bob:D:D

very easy to check relay as above, and you won't get dirty either.

mine is 94 RRC, from memory is behind right hand foot well panel near throttle pedal, possibly yellow. when you switch ignition to on you should feel it click on momentarily then off once it has primed.

if the the dampener springs in centre of clutch plate lost some tension they will rattle at low revs until centripital force shuts em up as the revs increase.

yes! and also check all vacuum hoses ensure no splits on ends and fit tight at all connections.

cool story bro but you are full of ****, the question was should air be leakink back, - and no it shouldn't, not unless the exhaust valve is stuffed in some way, which in this case it more than likely is.

air should not be returning to pump and no the pump is not designed for backward pressure