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The actual cross member is fine, it's just the chassis rail from the suspension to the cross member. Definitely not mot-able. I'm fairly decent at fabrication and welding so that's not an issue. I was just hoping to chop the end off and replace it . Not sure if the picture uploaded but...

From the rear suspension to the front is solid though. Minus small hole or two. Idea is for a chassis swop in the future but not enough time, space or money right now. Thought I'd patch it up for a year or 2. Could always do a 1/4 chassis but they are way more expensive than a cross member...

i need to replace my rear cross member as it's shot. The worst bit is the chassis leading upto the cross member so I need extensions. Does anyone know how long the extensions are? I don't want to buy 1/4 chassis (including suspension mounts) but my chassis is knackerd up the rubber axle stops...

There are a few videos on youtube of people replacing theirs. Would find a link but i'm at work and suppose to be working.

I'm trying to figure out how having it upside down would be an issue? Is it because you'd have air trapped in the top of the slave?

Id buy it. No matter how much you look over it, once you own it you'll discover things that need fixing - typically rust. But you do learn a lot!!

I would of said slave cylinder, did you replace the master because it was faulty? The slave and master have a habit of failing at the same time.

Why not just disconnect it? Don't see there being an issue though, its not like you disconnect when jump starting and thats a lot more current

Thanks, this will save me loads of time.

Nope, i don't know how much a lambda sensor is the a freelander but i replaced one on my polo recently and it was £55 i think. Eurocar parts seem to do 30% off every weekend, so worth checking there. Also might be worth checking all the pipes around the engine, the polo had an error code which...

What are the power settings? I have a 151en and i usually just play about with the buttons until its working. I never completely understood the running order or lowest to highest power, if that makes sense? so on the three switches, lowest; 1 2 min then the second lowest setting; A 2 min...

I had a similar issue with my old 109. I ended up using one of those one man bleed kits that are about £5 from halfords. Flushed the hole system with about two bottles of dot 4 and that seemed to do the trick. If you have changed brake lines i'd check that all the connections are done up...

Sounds like a prank that someone would play on an apprentice!! Actually a good point though, i cant think of another way of getting it out.

I'll do that. probably worth inspecting the tank and the areas of the chassis it hides anyway. Anything worth doing while its off?

I have a degree in it, still struggle with basic electrical issues though!

CO2 in a bucket sounds like a good science experiment. I usually stick a blanket of CO2 on top of the home brew and didnt think about doing the same with the petrol tank!

The tank is in good condition, never seen a leak and no smell of petrol ever. I'll see if it'll come out easily, if not i'll screen it. Thanks everyone

Its a petrol tank, on the red. Probably got around 5 litres in. So fire blanket & Fire extinguisher?

Whats the closest you'd weld to the fuel tank without removing it? I've got a rear cross member to do, some plating on the passenger side chassis rail and some plating on the driver side chassis rail just behind the tank!! Its a 90, so the tank it underneath the driver side seat!

Feel like I should point out that wasn't my car! Felt important to make that clear