Search results

I've not got my Roamerdrive fitted at the moment. It's in the shed awaiting a moment when I can dismantle it and see what's wrong. Throughout the time I was using it, it tended to get the transfer box very hot - so much so that I made an oil cooler device for it that switched on...

Let us know what you find. I've got some peculiar symptoms on the Honda engine on my welder generator. It'll start fairly easily but then stop after a few seconds. This happens about five times and then it will run fine and I can get some welding done. It feels a bit like fuel starvation, yet...

Found some pictures on the internet. The early style ones look like this: And the later ones look like this: I suppose another giveaway is that the early ones are drilled to accept the screws that hold a brake drum on (if they're intended for the back, at least) and the later ones are...

Yes, when they bind, especially when it's just on the point of being too tight, they don't do so evenly. In my case it was mostly the rear ones that were dragging and getting hot. Have a look at that push rod I mentioned above and wind it in a few turns so it's a little shorter and see if you...

Err. . . . I'm afraid I don't have any examples to hand, so I'm running on memory here. I've had a look in my parts catalogue with a magnifying glass, because the diagrams, although very small, are often a rich fund of information about the shape of parts or the order or orientation in which...

Ah, that sounds like something else that happened to me. The first time I rebuilt my brakes I was being a bit too ambitious in adjusting the push rod that activates the master cylinder. I was trying to get the bite point a bit higher up the pedal travel. I arrived at a point where the brakes...

I believe the changeover point was in 1994. The older, wider ones have a more sticky-out 'nose' where the drive flange fits.

Definitely from the front of the engine? I've had a mysterious squeak or squeal under load that eventually turned out to be the drum handbrake. It was caused, I think, by the friction material separating slightly from the metal part of the shoes. Eventually it was quieted by putting on new...

Sometimes new brake pads are a little generously proportioned compared to the space available between the disc and calliper. I've resorted to sanding a bit off EBC Greenstuff pads in the past to get them to fit in the past. Is that the problem? Or are the pistons coming out and not going back in?

If you're a bit hesitant about rebuilding a gearbox, the Land Rover transfer box is a good one to start on because it's a fairly simple offset 2 speed box and the parts are reasonably easy to get. I might do mine again this summer because it's around eight years since I had it apart and I think...

The other thing to consider is that Ashcrofts offer the gearwheels that go inside in a variety of ratios, to suit every purpose. As well as sets of bearings and gaskets. So assuming your case is OK , you could change the gears and bearings inside and have the equivalent of a new box in the ratio...

Yes, if the clutch plates aren't fully separating and the engine is still trying to twist the gearbox input shaft. Sometimes this can result from faulty master and slave cylinders too. Have a fiddle with the adjuster nuts where the upper part of the clutch pedal joins the master cylinder...

The wiring looms on TD5s deteriorate. The metal composition in the wires is rather stiff and brittle and the insulation can break up too. Especially where they're housed in those corrugated plastic tubes that Land Rover used to 'protect' them. So there may be a wiring loom fault. If you don't...

The casing looks very like my R380, but maybe it's an LT77. My bellhousing is different as I've got a TD5, but you're probably right. Even so, if there's any torque getting through, they can be reluctant to shift.

That looks like an R380 gearbox. They're very reluctant to go into gear if there's any torque getting through from the engine at all. This is good, inasmuch as it helps to stop you grinding the gears. So before taking the gearbox off the engine again it might be worth trying a little adjustment...

If I were you, I'd disconnect that propshaft and see if I could get it to work when it is free to move. The transfer box is a very simple two speed gearbox, and the lever moves a splined sleeve from side to side to engage the larger or smaller of the gear wheels with the output (which is...

Yes, the wiring on these things does deteriorate between the accelerator ('driver demand') pedal and the ECU. I'm not the only one to have had this happen. You can look at the input from the pedal on the Nanocom and see the voltages changing as you press the pedal down. Do you get the same...

There's certainly been some weather in Wales over the last few days. There was a sudden flurry of snow and hail as I was coming out of Welshpool on Wednesday, with all kinds of frozen stuff hammering on my windscreen. As well as hailstones there were odd shaped lumps of ice that looked like the...

How's the outside looking? Have they done an nice lintel or arch? I hope it's not just a bit of exposed I section.

They also do a 'cylinder head early' so I assume that might be a better match for the earlier 10p engines. Ask them, they're very knowledgeable about which bits fit which engine.