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There's an AEC Matador for sale on Ebay. Nobody's bid on it yet and it has a very reasonable starting price...

I think the later ones may be metric. I can get a metric bolt into mine, and it's a 2006 model. Usually, I can move the shaft out with a hooked seal pick on the threads, with is enough to get the circlip and washer on when I've replaced the drive flanges. So I get by without having to put a bolt...

You can take the master cylinder off the servo and gently bend it away - there's enough flex on the pipes so you don't have to undo any of them. Then you'll be able to see a rod peeping out that pushes on the plunger in the master cylinder. If you wedge the brake pedal down it will stick out...

Those battery finder web pages where you put in the registration or make and model seem to give you the minimum you can get away with, rather than something that'll keep you going reliably through a few British winters. I tend to go for something in the neighbourhood of 100 AH and 1000 CCA if I...

Yes, looks very like a Hillman Avenger Tiger to me. With a large valve head and twin Weber carburettors they managed to get over 90 bhp out of the little 1500 engine, which was a lot in those days. Sundance yellow and wardance red were the colourways. Decent examples are getting very collectible...

Thanks for the update. I'm pleased to hear you made the most of it despite bad weather and loss of wallet. I tried a recumbent bike back in the 1980s and things don't stay in your pockets. It's the angle your sitting at - a bit like how change finds its way down the crack of sofas.

Presumably you won't have people sleeping in the tent while you're driving around. The recommended maximum loadings are so that the car doesn't lean over too far when cornering and risk capsizing. The actual weight it can support before the gutters break is considerably more. I'm not sure how...

It's certainly cooler here in the east midlands this morning,so the brief burst of summer earlier in the week seems to be over. To stop it getting too hot in here I tend to open the windows at the back, which is north facing, and draw the curtains at the front which gets the full force of the...

Yes, they hung on to imperial sizes for some of these well into the 2000s. Mine's 2006 and still has the imperial sized bolts. Similarly, the bolts that hold the radius/trailing arms onto the back axle will probably still be imperial ones. So it's worth checking someone hasn't fobbed you off...

Well, I'm glad it's not just me. The nut holding the central ball joint to my back axle is positioned so you can't get a socket on it, because the body of the axle is in the way. On mentioning this on Landyzone I was met with some scepticism, even from the late great James Martin, who'd worked...

The Sweeney was my favourite of the police series when I was young because the others seemed rather insipid by comparison. Softly Softly and its successor, Barlow involved far to much talking for my liking. Z Cars seemed to be preoccupied with trivia. The Sweeney by contrast, generally began...

Mine does this occasionally too. It's fine after the engine has been worked for a short while. If you manage to solve it come back and let us know. Another suggestion I've had from a mechanic who seemed to know a lot about Land Rovers and built competition vehicles in his spare time is that...

Another thing that happens on TD5s is that the wiring loom between the accelerator pedal (or 'driver demand') and the ECU can deteriorate. This can show up as intermittent loss of revs and going into limp mode with the yellow engine light on. When this happened to me it was before I got my...

Is that a TD5 I see in the picture? How are things at the fuel pressure regulator? Any sign of any leaks? Does it maintain fuel at the correct pressure? I suppose another place where fuel could get out and air in is the O ring seals around the injectors. In which case the oil level in the sump...

OK then, that's the end of that idea. Is there any particular situation that tends to leave you with the error? In my case a run on the motorway was apt to give me a high speed crank error, whereas trundling to the shops at 30 mph wouldn't. Does it come up after high revving, for example?

I've tended to find 'high speed crank error' to be associated with the crank sensor. The cheaper ones do this, I discovered by trial and error. I got a somewhat more expensive branded one (I think it was a Lucas from memory) a few years ago and it's been fine since. The wire from the crank...

Don't forget the universal joints in the steering column. They can deteriorate and feel funny sometimes. Unfortunately the spiders are not replaceable and you've got to buy the whole piece of the column. The panhard rod bushes can become loose and the steering mechanism merely moves the whole...

Yes, I was pretty sure they were metric, at least on the later models.

Yes, some of the Salisbury type axles had a separate piece that bolted on to receive the tapered pin of the ball joint. These were 10mm I think. But I'd try a few spare bolts to identify what fits and then buy some high tensile jobbies. It's got to push the whole land rover along, push it round...

It only takes a few drops to make a mess, which is a very small amount compared to what you've got in the sump. On mine, the difference between the high and low marks on the dipstick is at least a litre, so with a small leak you wouldn't notice it.