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I was doing this again this afternoon but can’t find anything. I’m thinking it must be a leak at the valve block but it’s either on the underside where I can’t see when it’s all in place or else it’s internal somewhere which is where I thought I had a good idea with the UV dye but it seems not...

Sorry for the confusion, I’m either not explaining it well or I’ve fitted it incorrectly. I’ve attached a photo. You can see line 6 with a T piece running to the tank, the upright connector runs to my gauge. When I pulled the right pipe that runs to the tank and replaced it with the cap to block...

I have a T piece I fitted into line 6 just after the pipe for the tank leaves the valve block. One end runs on to the tank as it should the other to my wee gauge. When capped off, I just pulled the pipe to the tank out and replaced it with a small length of pipe with the cap in it so the...

Yes, I’ve had the dryer out and apart, replaced all of the o rings and the ballast type stuff in there too. I had the tank out a while ago as it has service rust on it. Took it back to bare metal with a poly carbide disc and coated it with por15. There wasn’t anywhere obvious on it that seemed...

I’m sure this has been flogged to death and then some but I didn’t find a response to a similar question online and I’m pretty much just rambling out loud here but hopefully the huge knowledge base here will know. Can a leak on the EAS be detected using a UV type dye similar/the same as used on...

Cheers fellas, will do. The nanocom is stuck in customs at the minute so I need something else in the mean time incase I get a hard fault!

I managed to get a hold on someone locally who has a P38 and the problem replicated itself on theirs too so it would seem the issue is more than likely with the Nanocom. Going to post it back in the morning and then we’ll see!!

Thank you for that, I’ll chase some wires and report back!

Do you know which pin going into the ecu triggers the relay and where it comes out? I’d like to check it for continuity. I’ve looked at RAVE but im not great with electrical diagrams

I get beeps from the nanocom unit itself, not the dash. Could it be a simple relay issue?

I haven’t tried to jump anything out of fear of damaging anything. I always imagined the relay should click but it doesn’t make any sound and it can’t be felt clicking if held when trying to access the ecu. If I did jump between pin 1 and pin 5 on the obd port what should I see/hear? (aside from...

No issue with continuity. Each time I enter or exit a menu on Nanocom I get the beep from the unit but once I click on faults etc within the EAS section i don’t get data - it still beeps when I press buttons to the unit but doesn’t respond. There are no flashes of lights or warning messages etc...

It’s got ANR4387 fitted which I guess is the proper one? I’ve a spare one here too that came out of a breaker but when I swap them about it doesn’t change anything. I checked the connections in where they are crimped too by plugging in the OBD lead and looking for continuity at the Nanocom end...

Can I ask what where the symptoms of yours acting up? I've both updated and then factory reset mine but its not behaving any differently when plugged into the car. Odd thing was that when I accessed all of the various ECUs when plugged into the pc they all threw up the "no communication" error...

Yes, I’ve tried with just ignition on and with engine running. It’s very odd to not have an error from the system saying it can’t communicate or some other fault. The logic aspect of the unit seems fine as it can speak to all the other systems in the RR so I don’t know what would have triggered...

Unfortunately there isn’t another p38 near me that I know the owner so i might have to knock a door or two! As for the obd plug it’s fine, I’ve had it apart and it looks grand. Also checked the plug for the ecu but it’s in good order too. Reading the nanocom site I think I’ll flash the reader...

Hi all, my EAS has been acting odd (a relative term) recently and I can’t seem to work out what the issue is. I was having all sorts of Nanocom issues across many systems in the car a few months ago so I removed the white connector blocks in the footwells and had the wires soldered. Everything...

Really should update this more often! The rear doors were next and came up rightly. Good job i took it apart when i did though as the wee bracket that holds the quarter glass was more or less toast. Once i made up a new bracket and got it fitted i put a wee touch of tape to try and...

Started to tidy up the door frames today and remove some of the rust around the bottom. I knew that there was going to be a little rust that was out of sight but I was in for a shock! The frames were removed easily once I fond the bolts holding it in place, oddly enough. There was also rust...

Cheers! So, I've genuinely not been at much over the past few months but I have had to fork out for four new tyres and opted for a set of Toyo Open Country A/T Plus. Whilst they make the Disco look far more aggressive, between work and family I've not had the opportunity to test them but from...