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I just used a metric 12mm 12point socket, worked okayish without any issues. Another mod i did that i would recommend is to cut the section of steel on the manifold that joins two of the exhaust ports. My brother and i both had manifold sealing issues where the two ports would not be parallel...

Yeah Airtex Mahle also has one that looks quite good, i have one in stock but havent fitted it to an engine yet.

Red bubber grease works fine but doesnt deal with high temps very well at all. If you do use it just replace it every time you do new brake pads. The best is silicone based grease.

For those heatshield bolts i just used a pair of plumbers pliers while lying under the car. Some ended up coming out, most just snapped off. Honestly i was glad if i could get them to snap because it meant less unthreading to do. Thinking about it now, if i had to deal with those ****s again i...

The flanged liners isnt something ive done yet, but the moment my engine gives me an excuse to rebuild it i will be fitting flanged liners. Probably the Darton Sleeves from Turner engineering.

It was while i was testing the main engine cooling fan that i noticed that it would spin the AC condensor fans. It was after i noticed this that i made the decision to remove them.

Yeah when i got my P38 it had a blown HG. It was a very small compression leak into atmosphere though with no pitting on the block or head, so i was very lucky in that regard. Fitted ARP headstuds and new elring gaskets. I fully agree with the ARP headstud route, they reusable, you can get way...

This was a very slippery mud hill, not thick mud just exceptionally slippery. Im pretty sure it was on that bounce that i ripped the engine mount. I probably bounced about a meter to the right. This was when i actually got up the obstacle.

It was an exceptionally fun trip. Extremely wet and lots of mud. So we left friday afternoon after work. Before leaving i filled my petrol tank. We drove to the fuel station nearest to our accomodaction and refilled again. Distance covered 264km Dash indicated fuel consumption 12.7l/100km Dash...

If option 1 is nickel plated id take that. Its way less prone to corrosion issues than copper or brass

25sqmm is 4awg Just confirm the 25sqmm. Im abit unsure of that value. sqmm is millimetres squared or mm^2. Its just abit easier to type.

On the negative cable its 25sqmm if i remember correctly

If you are able to make a proper crimp on cable that size do not solder it. On large connections like that that see vibrations the solder forms micro cracks that are terrible for electrical connections. Rather put in some effort to keep moisture out either some form of resin after the crimp has...

Just abit of an update. Ive been running the new fan in the car since ive started this thread and it seems to be performing quite well. I dont have any actual numbers relating to fuel consumption because driving around town i quite like the sounds when i press the loud peddal. But we are going...

If you unplugged the diaphragm valve(its the two pin connector that sits right next to the compressor) or something went wrong with its electrical connection you also wont build any preassure. The compressor will just be pumping back into atmosphere.

Proper crimped cable lug that bolts onto the battery terminal clamp

Okay Yeah i agree that would be best to get that garage to restore the ECU back to original. Then start the car, my guess is majority of those errors will go away, they ones that dont you can then clear. The ones that then return are the errors you have to worry about.

In your first post you mentioned that you bought a replacement ECU. Do you have the cars original ECU fitted or the replacement one? If you have the replacement fitted that should explain all the errors and probably why the immobilizer is not turning off.

https://blackbox-solutions.com/photos/L322lock.pdf Have a look at this too, its seems very similar to the issue you are having.

If the key is not turning at all how are you getting the ignition ON? Without ignition almost none of the modules on CAN will come online. You wont be able to measure a voltage on the CAN bus between CAN low and high on the OBD connector. What you should check is what the resistance is across...