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For the record... I had actually installed the clutch plate the wrong way after all. The plate goes in so that the protruding stub faces away from the engine, which is opposite to most other vehicles (and looking at my photo that's indeed the case, but difficult to see through the pressure...

Hmmm that makes a lot of sense. Bugger. Really don't fancy lifting the engine out again. Easier to drop gearbox? Thanks for advice

There was a small gap, more so bottom of bell housing, probably half inch or so that the bolts pulled in...

So my injector seals finally arrived allowing me to complete my TD5 engine swap. She fired up and sounds pretty damn good... Unfortunately I am unable to put her in gear, so I must have messed something up! I can start her up in 1st gear and she will lurch forward, but once the engine is...

I used a 1/2” drive extension - the bigger end fitted perfectly into the spigot, then wrapped some duct tape around its length to get the clutch nice and snug. Like a dream!

If I stick the hose in at the top water comes out of the three holes where the oil cooler sits

Water comes out clear funnily enough, but I think whatever’s inside has hardened. I’ve ordered some engine descaler to soak in for a few days. Annoying as I was ready to drop the engine in today!

“New” engine arrived yesterday and found this - thick layer of rusty deposits. It was actually worse than this - I made a brief attempt to remove a little of it. My guess is previous owner used water to instead of coolant, but the pictures of the engine I looked at before I purchased didn’t...

Excellent. So just find a long socket that fits nice and snug? Thanks guys!

Clutch and DMF are only a year old, so will be leaving those. Just getting the ancillaries on today, waiting for my clutch alignment tool to arrive. Anyone mange to fit a clutch without one? I imagine its easier with engine out?

Great idea!

Hey guys, so I have a 2nd hand TD5 arriving tomorrow to replace my original, which I’ve removed. I’ve got a clutch alignment tool as the clutch/flywheel came out with the old engine, and I’ve stripped all the ancillaries ready to be transplanted, and purchased new gaskets etc. Engine is 10p...

Haven’t had a chance to look at it yet - it’s stuck in high range and doesn’t seem to be wanting to come out, and as I’m only using her for pulling trailer about on our land it doesn’t feel urgent anymore. Actually thinking I might just get her in the barn and take the plunge (the big engine...

A little update - the hi/low stick has gone floppy, so can assume the linkage has gone!

Wow - never heard of this!

Thanks - will have a look! Re low range: hi range wasn’t giving me the torque I needed to force her forwards/back in the rut - I wanted space to lay some tracks in the ground for traction, which worked fine, but it was a matter of out of the frying pan and into the fire.

I got stuck in some boggy ground in one of my fields the other day - a lot of angry revving in low range trying to get her free before my neighbour effortlessly pulled me out with his lovely tractor. Parked up over night, this morning went to drive into town but seems she can’t stay in high...

Could try a new fuel filter - a Mahle or Bosch. Cheap ones can cause problems (I’ve heard). Also does it start ok on a full or 3/4 full tank? If so could be air bleed valve, which sits inside the front left connector on the fuel filter housing, looks like this: Found on inside of front left...

I'm looking for a trailer, could be front wheels only... depending on what I get hold of. But regarding props, that's very good advice and something which I might have overlooked, thankyou!

I had AA recovery - they got me to Liverpool -70 miles from where I broke down. After 80 miles they charge 2.50 a mile so didn't fancy it - I was about 220 miles from home. At the time I was convinced it was fuel pump as I had one go in exactly the same circumstances years before in my previous...