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Radiator removed, cleaned and repaired. Gasket between core and tank was leaking. Other than that radiater is in excellent condition. Radiator shop replaced gasket and tested and all okay now. Did a test run today and all seems well. Lets hope it styas that way. Will be doing a nice trip this...

Got the same problem with my L-series. Came across this link. Freelander - Under Bonnet Noise - Land Rover ........I suspect (or rather HOPE) this may be it. Will have a look when I get some time on the weekend.

Yes, should last 80 000km. I guess in miles that would be 50 000. Had a similar experience with dealer, independant Landy expert did it for 25% of the cost, genuine parts included.

Thanks for that. Tomorow they forecast close to 40 degrees C... then cooler weather again on Wednesday. The antifreeze was changed when I had the heater matrix done last year about Sept. Oil looks good (black and no sign of water). I think the radiator is about to go.... and can only get one...

On my 2000 L-series, I noticed yesterday driving at 120km/h on freeway with aircon running,the coolant temp gauge started climbing above the normal halfway mark. If I slowed down a bit it would drop to normal halfway mark on the gauge. Outside temp was about 35 degrees C or higher. Looking at...

That is not normal for monda mode. I have been in mondo mode for 3 years... both props and vcu were removed. Had a rattle which was exhaust bracket that bolts to gearbox - was cracked.

I also still got the same problem.... wonder what would happen if a new intercooler pipe was fitted.... maybe pipe is acting up somehow?

I tow with a L series (caravan approx. 900kg). I have to watch the temp gauge on long hills, and tow comfortably at 80 to100 km/h in 4th gear. I can push it to 120 km/h if I want to overtake (on level road), but then slow down again to 80 to 100. I was advised by Landy specialist not to tow in...

Had a similar problem.... auto electrician replaced solenoid and problem solved.

Exhaust has a bracket which is bolted to gearbox (on my 2000 XEDi).... mine cracked and made a noise as engine revs picked up. Difficult to see and get to as plastic shield under the engine is in the way. Remove this or just loosen at back. Not easy to spot the crack.... only after several...

Had the same problem. Removed the door panel and sprayed silicone lubricant on the slide rails and the rubber that the window slides in. Solved my probelm.My springs were still ok, but worth checking anyway.

Check if heater matrix is not leaking. Resulted in smell and also misting up of windscreen on left side of my FL. Check under heater box and feel if wet...maybe even damp carpet. Should see coolant colouring.

I had anothet go at it over the weekend... no luck. I resigned myself to the fact that it is a characteristic of this vechicle, and learnt to work around it, so now it does not bother me anymore. Had a MF 1080 tractor once that gave similar symptons at specific revs while under load...

Interesting....... What I have noticed is that the airfilter box must vibrate quite a bit as you can see where it hits the interecooler pipe. But when you feel it, it feels secure. I can only assume it is when you get the vibration. I would be interested to see what the fix is. I will also poke...

I have the same probeme.... :confused:since it was bought 8 years ago (25 000km). Mine is a 2000 Xedi. Seems to be a problem with some L series vehicles when the engine is under a certain amount of load/strain at these revs. I removed the propshaft and no improvement. I know of a few few guys...

The dipstick originally had a plastic tip, which tends to break off. I took a metal file and just filed the dipstick tip round (it was square with sharp corners). Now it goes in without any problems.:clap2:

The explanation given to me by Landrover is that the Freelander, because of the IRD ratio, drags it's rear wheels slightly. Of course the VCU slips, but this still results in some drag being experienced by the rear wheels. I had the same sawtooth effect. Since then I removed the propshaft and am...

Thanks Dann. Corrosion is not a problem major for us here seeing as it is a dry climate. However dust is, especally when driving on dirt roads. The dust gets in everywhere and clogs up the mechanisms. I will take my time and lubricate everything over a weekend, but with cold weather and snow...

Thanks for the replies. Yes, the inner cable is exposed, but there is a spring holding the cable outer cover to the slide mechanism. I thought maybe this was by design..... as a sort of shock absorber...??? I will lubricate the cable as will and see if it helps. I did lubricate the rubbers as...

I have a 2000 Xedi. Normally the tailgate window drops approx. 1 inch when you press the latch to open the door. Lately it only drops a very small distance.... just enough to open the door, but not enough to close the door. I can push it down to the correct mark easily by hand. And it will go...