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The impact wrench will do the job but only if your compressor is up to it. You need a fair amount of air.

New clutch and release bearings, check all the chassis in the engine bay for welding work and smother it in grease or waxoyl to stop any further rusting. Replace the gearbox and transfer box oils and front axle oils.

I would check the windings of the fan by checking that there is resistance and not a dead short or infinite resistance. Then run 12v through it from a separate feed. If the fuse is blowing then there is a dead short in the system somewhere.

You can trace the problem without removing the fan housing. First check the fan switch on the dash has voltage and that the fuse is OK. Under the bonnet find the wires to the fan and check for continuity of the fan motor. Once you find the culprit then you can take apart the correct part.

Sounds like fuel starvation that I have had. If you run the fuel level in the tank very low you pick up all the crud in the bottom. I would replace the fuel filter under the bonnet and try and clean out the fuel hoses. I use a large oil syringe to suck the fuel through from the tank to the filter.

It's probably getting in through the rubber door seal. Where it clips to the door frame there is a gap that water seeps in through capillary action. I've had to glue the door seals on with bathroom sealant to get it to stop on my 110 and 90.

Bypass the relay altogether. Find the glow plug wire from ignition switch position 2, when you get 12v. Then just manually sit the ignition at position 2 for 5 seconds and start her up.

See ya'll there on Thursday evening :D:D

No worries Medusa, we'll make the next one more local to you. Find a place for September.

Land Rover/Tata, you'd better be listening! Range Rover, Defender 4 and Freelander 4 take the last 3 places for reliability! Mind you BMW and Volvo aren't far above.:D

Looks like a lot of rain this afternoon and tonight and got lots of bikes and cars to fix so gonna give it a miss.

:bump:

The PTO winch is worth a fair bit if you want that sort of thing, look on fleabay for prices. I'd stick with the wheels and tyres on it, they'll last you a long time and handle well on the road.

This is what you want, some sort of sacrificial anode. I am looking for something like this for my 110 to stop the rust altogether. Cheaper than a full galvanised chassis. Martyr Anodes – Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium Anodes for Pleasurecraft and Commercial Craft

Give Safari Engineering near Blackbushe, Keith Gotts in Alton and Challenger 4x4 near Aldershot a ring. I'm sure one of them will want to do the work.

Only a couple of weeks away and still to be at the Poachers.

I had a similar problem. I used a suction pump and pulled loads of fuel and greasey gunk out through the entire fuel pipe from the tank. Has run fine for a few months since.

Blame Mad Hat Man for that one :) I'll be happy if the Landy's get us there.

It is overheating because the motor is being stopped from moving. Not part of the MOT so don't worry.

:5biagree: