Search results

I've just repaired the bonnet on series 3, that's a steel frame fixed to an aluminium skin with solid aluminium rivets. Only protection on the rivets is the anodise. The frame had rotted away (and not where it's in contact with the aluminium skin) there was never a layer of paint between the...

To be fair, with stainless steel this all takes so long that your chassis will have turned to dust before you need to worry about it. It's far too easy to start thinking to much about what actually needs to be done. Keep it simple... I fitted stainless steel bolts where ever I could to mine...

I've just done exactly this, after running my Overdrive untouched for the last 14 years with a Rover V8 in front of it (I've rebuilt the gearbox 3 times). I only decided to strip it as the input splines were worn out, so new input sleeve and a costly new main shaft were needed. All the...

They are tough, the achilles heal of them is the input spline on the coupling sleeve (RTC7170), this wears until there is a failure and you loose drive in all gears. This spline only wears because the LT76 standard Series gear box has so much end float due to relying on plain bearings and not...

One other thing I forgot to say is why does everyone think the Fairy overdrive is weak? To me it seems better designed and built than the Series Gearbox it attaches to.

Well the main shaft I got from Shop4Autoparts is spot on. Also thinking about it you can just about build a new overdrive using parts from them, so Short of copy casting the housing I do not see what's new with RDS.

I can wee higher than you!!!!

Shop4autoparts have new Fairy overdrive parts at a lower cost than that, much lower in fact. Just bought a new main shaft for £140.

I hear what your saying there, use standard V8 parts. I'll need to get my tape measure out again. Stubby bell housing is 111mm + 60mm for adaptor, is the V8 R380 bell housing longer than 171mm?

Hi James, thanks for this, It's a 56A suffix J box. So from what you have said it's a 22 tooth FTC5062 pinion shaft I need to get. Do you remember what clutch you used? I'm guessing one of the Diesel ones, possibly 2.5NA?

I've seen many threads discussing the idea of doing this, but none of how good the end result is. I've managed to get hold of a low mileage reconditioned 300tdi Defender R380 gearbox. It's showing no signs of wear on the output shaft what so ever. As it stands is has the Defender long bell...

I think there is a distinct scene of humour lack going on here.

Most places I've seen are charging £85+ for a main-shaft nut tool. Two or three hours on the mill and lathe is more than worth my effort. Plus it's enjoyable.

Not long finished making this to get the new main-shaft nut tightened to the correct torque on my S3. This is my take on the tool. All you need is a 30mm deep reach socket. I'll get to see if it works at the weekend, fingers crossed.

It's a Standard S3 with a defender front, with a 3.9 serp V8. The Defender front is soon to be replaced with the original S3 front, work very much in progress. On the trailer is a 1946 Series 1 Field Marshall, looking very green where I have just recovered it from a barn where it had stood for...

Are you reading the chassis plate correctly? Below is mine from a 1980 88" In order Max vehicle weight 2120Kg Max train weight 6120Kg Max front axle weight 930Kg Max rear axle weight 1190Kg

How do you get an Ifor Williams canopy to leak oil? ;-)

In fact, to add to this, here's mine with a Series 1 Field Marshall.

Series 3's for certain and probably 2's as well are rated to tow 3500kg. Series brakes if kept maintained will lock the wheels up, I'm not sure (short of ABS) how much more braking you can need. LWB will be more stable.

Any details of when the auction will be and how to register?