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thanks for the information jamemartin cheers

spent most of the day under the car doing rear diff seal, nearly gived in trying to get caster nut off.everything went fine just unsure about torque setting for main nut. now that i know how to do seal might do front tomorrow

hi all :) well today ive changed the rear diff oil seal,when i undid the castell nut i counted the turns to remove and came to 8. when refitting i screwed it back on to 8 so i checked to see what torque would be.here the prob ive come across flange nut 41-52 and also bevel pinion nut 95-163...

you could get your body mounts from here Inner Sill Repair Mounts (Pair) LRD147-2&3 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. saves hassle of making them and at a good price

undersealed wheel arch and checked levels on axles. easy day :D

how did you notice this ,did you have it reassembled. or was it while you give it quick test to make sure everything was linned up

diff sounds like the cv

while your mate is welding get him to teach you. well worth learning esp if your keeping a land rover

as long as your good with a welder its all fixable

going off that 2nd pic i think if that had been done properly in the first place i dont think that would of rotted out thro that pic. also it doesnt look like its had any after protection at all, underseal etc

when i fitted my box section i decided to cut out the inner and out sill lip and offered box into place then measured floor i needed and drilled holes which would be on top of the box so then it could be puddle weld. i found it was worth removing the doors for 2 reasons. 1 less wait on door...

the box section you will need to cap the ends off to stop rot inside happening. towards the front there is a body support which is morly likely rusted away this will needed replacing all tho ive known some not to replace this.also the same for the rear.all this helps with th e body strengh...

well smart that :)

got the wet vac out while seats were out, they came up better than i thought. :D

ive done mine and found it was easier to remove the inner lip.i would also recommned to remove the doors aswell. as less chance of the a and b posts moving.plus your not walkin around them all day. its diff worth changing the body mounts aswell,makes the job so much easier. when box is in place...

finshed welding in o/s rear wheel arch seatbelt back in now and redoxided to death. hopefully do other side tomorrow

started rear wheel arch, repairing seatbelt mount and also body support to box section.all cut out and plate welded in.also checked boot floor,still plenty to be getting on with

after asking infor about fitting uj today, i finally got it fitted overall im well pleased :D

Well done, great feeling aint it.I've got my own soon once of my welding is sorted and few other bits

ive no problem going under the car on axles ,ramps etc.think it it was the thought of removing the pro and knowing the brake is on the rear prop to trasmission. now that ive be given instructions i be fine knwing the car wont move even when wheels are chocked. and for the tool ive seen them on...