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Looking at the manual I can see the problem your having,the unit in my range isn't like that one.What year is your car?

I don't think the clutches are lubricated,it does sound as if yours is not being fully engaged for whatever reason.

I know on some other manufacturers when you change the aircon clutch you've got to set the air gap using shims.I'd guess the system works the same way on landrover/rangerover aircon systems

The clutch is operated by an electromagnet,strange for it to stop and start like that.

I thought there was only 1 single power lead going to the unit,then the aerial cable from the radio to the unit,and the unit to the window?

As Kev says theres a fuel temp sender which is fitted to the fuel rail as well as the coolent temp sensor.according to my diagram the coolent temp sensor input is pin 17 at the ecu and the fuel temp input is pin 18.I wonder if the fuel temp sensor is at fault?

Just been out and measured the one on my classic 200tdi and its exactly 680mm while fitted.don't know what engines in yours but the prop you've got isn't a deisel one.

I've always used a good quality 10w40 oil in petrols and 15w40 in deisels,regular changes arn't expensive if you shop around and the filters are cheap enough too.the newer sythetic oils that say they can last 15k between services are all well and good in a brand new engine but on older higher...

On my 93 classic the window control module is under the center console,your open the lid,remove 4 screws that hold the stowage tray in place,lift the tray out you'll see it.

Its a subwoofer,I took the top half off mine + threw away the speaker and amp.the bottom piece makes a usefull out of site storage tray for tools ect;)

I'd try and get a good one thats already been lpg converted,I know this might be stating the obvious but if you turn out not to like it or just decide in a few months to get somthing else the better you rangie is easyer it will be to sell on,I'd imagine most people looking for a 4.0/4.6 would be...

You say not the fuel pump itself but it could be the stop solenoid or the feed to it.Try running your own feed directly to the solenoid.

Locket is right in what he says and definatly worth checking,however on my classic there was water coming in behind the passenger side of the dash,we took the bonnet and decker panel off and found 4 or 5 possible causes as in perished cable entry grommets and a large plate which blanks up a hole...

I don't think the vm is the worst engine avalible but not the way forward for a defender transplant

Was just wondering as I replaced my damaged radiator a few months back i noticed the oil cooler was part of the radiator and that the intercooler was next to it on a frame,seems a good setup but then i suppose i might not give you the options of other engines later.

Are you using the standard tdi radiator/intercooler/oilcooler setup or making your own?

Ok,i've put the transfer lever in neutral,jacked up 1 front wheel and can hardly move the raised wheel,I wonder what they mean by some resistance?

Thanks for that both,should find somthing using one of the methods.

I've been out and checked the front diff,everythings there that should be and theres plenty of oil in it,I think i need to find a suitable place to test it out again.Goonarmy,i've just noticed your quotes from other members:)

Tbh i use the car back and forth to work everyday and it rarely go's offroad apart from my mates quad track so i suppose somthing could have been broken for a while.The front prop is all there and turns when you drive.I need to look into this further i think.