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It looks more rounded than seized so I would think the gripper type sockets would do it. When I first got my D2 the sump plug was completely round. Local garage got it off using a gripper socket.

For parallel plugs you don't need the ballast resistor. Wire with good quality cable, about 30 Amp, fed through a relay with a timer or warning light. You will also remove the final lead from plug to block.

Agreed, just keep topping it up with diesel to dilute. Back in the day we would put a pit of Petrol in the Diesel to stop it freezing. Mind you engines where not so highly strung then, but the TD 4 is a good engine, you should be fine. Just check no excess smoke before your MoT.

Not the length of rope I hope ! o_O

Wiring diagram tells me it is a 2 pin green connector LHS rear of engine. But as Sierra says you really need a proper code reader. I was initially told, for all models, Exhaust sensors work back from engine with 1 being nearest but diagrams do not bear that out ?

Supply should be 5v, only 3 of the 5 cavities are used. The wiring is mirrored on the other side, have you compared like for like ?

Not sure about 2008 model but at some point there was a Glow Plug Control Module under LH H-lamp, accessible from wheel arch. I do know there is a grey 4 pin connector between plugs and ECM, near top of engine on right, as you look at it. If car is starting fine. Have you tried clearing the...

You could try somewhere like Autosparks online, but if you visiting any Classic shows there are often several stalls selling these.

They are known for having good engines, other than that, dunno. But if you do buy, They are reputed to have good engines, other than thst, dunno. But don't go changing anything until you get used to how it is and how it should be.

Unfortunate turn of events. Be said to see it scrapped, but with those estimates it looks likely.

If they write it off ask to buy it back. Unless the impact was at speed and it has damaged the crash cans that looks an easy repair. Yours was stationary so no airbags to be concerned about. To be Honest, that age and mileage it not worth much on the market. That said I'd have it.

Think we all been through this, and to be honest it could be coming from anywhere. Start at the top, sunroof, roof bars, work down, windscreen all around, remove front scuttle cover. Up in footwells, grommets, door seals. I ended up selling mine as I just could not get to the bottom of it. Sorry...

Long time since I done one, but don't think replacement was a big job. Few bolts, couple of screws and lots of scrivets !

Apparently leaving the scene of an accident is not necessarily a crime ! An Amazon van hit my Daughter in her Polo on a roundabout, spun the car around ! Whilst she recovered from the shock, he got off. When we eventually found an open Police station they asked did we have registration number...

If it is a coolant leak and not an internal seepage. Have a look at the heater pipe that runs across the back of the engine, between the bulkhead.

Headliner looks good. Job well done.

Start by checking earths and the connectors in passenger footwell. They get wet !

Similar issue on my petrol 2A, it was indeed the push button switch. Take off give it a good clean, make sure earths are good and try again.

If this was a Series I would remove rear prop', go for a drive and see if noise stops. Tyres have to have equal wear, but Haldex failure is common.

Disconnect the battery negative before removing starter.