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My 110 (ex-MOD likely ex-ambulance) has a venerable 2.5D in it with well over 300000Kms. Still runs well, but it occurs to me that it is likely due for a refreshing and/or replacement with an overhauled unit. Question I put to the assemblage (yes, you lot) is how do I determine this other...

If I may offer a different oipinion... Yes, they are traditionally body colour and my 109 and 86 are such. However, when redoing the very scabby interior of my 110 (hey, it's a Series IV :) )I made a conscious decision to go with a light grey rather than the OD it was currently painted or the...

In a word, no. You will need to drain the oil - but it needed changing anyway dinnit? :)

OK - have a run at the hydraulics before you do anything. I recently had a similar problem on my 109 and it turned out the master cylinder had gone weird and was not releasing pressure properly. I might crack off the bleeder on the slave cylinder and see if it's under pressure - which could...

Steering damper (as said above) but also check the ball joints and the swivel preload. Had that issue with a Range Rover Classic and found out it had been soldiering on with all of the above messed up...changed the handling no end when all was fixed/adjusted. Alan

Re: Injector leak: You might want to have a look under the bonnet with the engine running. I have with my 2.5D had more than one injector pipe fracture and this can result in some Diesel spillage when running (so what is on your drive may be leakdown from that). Could also well be a slightly...

Couple things you can check here. First off, is the door itself straight and square? Many aftermarket ones sadly are not - they weld up the frames without clamping them properly and things warp. However, all is not lost. Doors are amenable to a little percussive maintenance (i.e.: bend the sod...

You don't need to completely remove itt from the car to test this - simply electrically isolating it will do. This doesn't need to get done at the alternator - it can be done upstream at any convenient connection. Just a thought. :p Alan

First place I might check is the alternator - which can still charge and function with a leaky/dodgy diode (which can cause the exact symptoms you mention). Barring that the ammeter in line with the battery positive and yanking the fuses is a good idea.

Re: Missing bits: If you cruise around the Web there is a manual for rectifying these faults (called the water ingress manual I believe). That would help you avoid missing bits. Been driving LRs of all stripes for over 20 years and never have managed to cork one up. :) ajr

Thinking it might be worth dismounting the stop solenoid and making sure it throws correctly by grounding it outside the pump and making sure it withdraws properly. A partially stuck or nonworking stop solenoid could do that - BTDT and the bastard failed on the motorway.

OK, at this point the turbo means jack-all so i feel comfortable in commenting (I have a 2.5NA). Crack off all the connections at the injectors and crank it - you should see a good bit of fuel there. Also, open the top of the filter at a connection and operate the priming leverl - good squirt...

Drying it out is no big deal - simple evaporation if kept in a heated area will dry it out fine, or jam a hair dryer in the inlet and let it run for a while to purge the moisture. I just let the one I did dry out and it was fine. As far as a sealant...personal opinion if you don't have...

Were it me I'd pop the pistons and just exammine the bores. Worst case a bit of honing with a brake hone and new cups and you're off to the races. Rebuild kits are much cheaper than cylinders even for you lucky folks who can get them at the local auto shop. :)...

Just to conclude this thread for the search engines it turned into an absolutely annoying goat rodeo. 4 S***part injectors (recalibrated) in, then out because of horrid smoke levels, then 4 recons from Allmakes in...and the truck is transformed. Power is back up nicely, smoke is minimized...

Were it me I wouldn;t be concerned about slight rust - it's not a big deal. Filter will get anything fine, and light defines as "not coming off in chunks", right? If you want to give it a thorough clean you can do what I did recently to a VERY nasty tank. I put a double handful of dishwasher...

OK, specifics after some investigation: Compression is constant across all 4 and commensurate with an engine with 200K. No idea on the pump, though cracking off each pipe at idle results in about the same drop. Filter service did nowt - they weren't bad and no bio problems in the oil in the...

Yes, I know, with a 2.5 NA how can you tell...very funny... My daily driver 110 - 2.5 NA has been acting odd. While driving along at a steady speed the engine feels like it's missing beats - a bit of a stutter that was not there previously. Not hugely smoky, though i am noticing a bit of blue...

Just had two Weber 34ICh carburettors apart for my Series I 86 (2.25 engine in it not the original). Both of them had had some hours on them, and both had been used with the 10% ethanol fuels we get here in the States. On neither of them did I see this level of discolouration - the brass was...

Given the description of the truck and the connection to the ECU I suspect what you have there is an electronic hand throttle. As you said, google was not your friend with that much information but also given the truck had a hydraulic pump and connections fitted to it tthe electronic hand...