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As above, I would add that you should think about genuine mounts. I had a couple of patterns that failed, fitted genuine and no further problems Take a look at your gearbox mounts when you're under her, Cheers

I did this on my d1 There's a bit of fiddling, but it's doable Need a welder though Cheers

Take the damper off. The damper adds weight to the steering , if it's weak, you can get slappy steering, if heavy, it may be bent or starting to sieze up At the very least, if it's the same when off. You have eliminated it, Next stop is a siezing steering ball joint Cheers

When mine rotted out, I replaced the sills with 4 by 2 box section steel ,did the same with the rear crossmember Cheap as chips. About 20 quid , far far less than the 300 or so I saw sill sets at Boot floor at 60, a frame ball joint when the floors up A welder at 150 to 200 and your away...

As above, go OEM OEM means original equipment, ie, what was in the thing when it left the factory, loads of suppliers say they use oem, or oem similar, but its less than honest imho For all they cost, its not worth the chance

Mine are the same vents as elsewhere, you can also see where the duct work goes around the back sunroof At a pinch, it wouldn't be hard to drop the headliner, and plumb in some electric flexible conduit to the existing ducts, and at least get it venting into the boot area Cheers

Mine has this option, to seats 6 and 7 It's a 2001 es premium, so i would think there must be a few in breakers yards If you do go for it. Remember you'll need a headlining to suit the new ducts Cheers

Mine has these, 2001 es premium, might be worth a try round the scrappys

Had the same problem, as well as the leccy bit being worn I bought a new disco one lock and key, around 35 quid Took the key portion off the D2 fob, and keep it on the ring, as long as its close to the exciter ring, its fine A small straightforward wiring splice and all is fine, new lock came...

same here, I used 4 by 2 box galvanised from a local steel supplier cost buttons, MOT man thought it was a great job, i suppose if you put jack points into for a side jack, it could be a mod, but to me , its a repair

Mines exactly the same. Mind you, I don't see much out the back due to the centre headrest

Looks really well. Grinder and masking tape for mine soon Cheers

Might be wrong, but I've something telling me that seven seaters need to be on air rear suspension Insurance issue if so Cheers

Agree with the others re underseal, Good for a bodge and squeaking through an mot, thats about it. Has anyone used aerosol cold galvanised spray? after treatment but before paint etc cheers

No need for a hub, The failed seal sits behind the cv joint, with the drive shaft going through it, I had to make a tool to insert it neatly, as i butchered it with a socket! it leaked of course! Buy genuine, 8 quid or something like it per seal cheers

With mine the back being off also effected the front, it was. As you say, pretty annoying I found a 23mm imbalance on the height settings via hawkeye Cheers

Mine was the same, recalibrated the rear height settings and all was resolved Cheers

I've timed the start times, I have between 4 and 5 minutes before she won't start That is. She starts after being unlocked for 4 minutes, but doesn't crank after being unlocked for 5 minutes Hope this helps Gordon

Thanks sierafery, I'll run some timings and come back to you with an accurate report Cheers Gordon

Hi All, My td5 D2 has begun to misbehave on startup When i turn the key, lights etc come on, but doesn't crank. lock car with fob, wait until the flashing red light goes out< unlock, and she cranks and starts fine. I replaced the ignition switch as i though that was something to do...