Search results

hmm... so when its on boost, its absolutely fine, its just the off boost performance is lacking?

thanks again - that part number has made me find a few threads on other forums too, which has pretty much confirmed what i thought. Ta!

awesome ta - acessed from underneath? It looks like this is on the side of the pump between it and the block, with a bolt diagonally opposite, top and bottom. The pin - is this held in its setting with the piece of soldered lock wire?

boost is a touch high, still think the map sensor... dont the TD5's have electronic wastegates? I.e. it won't open unless the map sensor tell it to. I could be wrong on this part though.

i changed a fuse in my 90 the other day. Now, several of the fuses only work if they are wedged in in a particular way...

Does anyone know where i can get a new diaphragm for a 19J IP? The one that adjusts fuelling for boost... Are they easy to change? Ta!

I think we have found the problem... Air was getting in to the pump - from the turbo diaphragm. Yet to remove the diaphragm, but disconnecting and sealing off the pipe to the turbo produced no change in performance, other than it didn't cut out and didn' fill the pump up with air. :)

surely a worn turbo would exhibit itself by producing smoke LONG before the loss in power? and a loss of boost? Cos as far as i see it, without a loss in boost its not the Turbo/wastegate at fault... its something else.

sounds like you've eliminated anything from the gearbox back with that test - can you 'borrow' a MAP sensor to try it? if you unplug it, does it have much effect?

my 90 came with it fitted as per pic 7... was a useable height for most things, and plenty strong enough too.

you should get very minimal negative pressure on a diesel. The reason you get negative pressure on a petrol, (turbo or not) is due to the engines 'suck' against the (closed) throttle plate. As a doosel has no throttle plate, the only negavtive pressure you will get it against the air filter...

i used these: http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00UvKEyeMYHThV/Hex-Washer-Head-Self-Drilling-Screw.jpg so much easier... drop it into a socket on the drill, buzz, in. Easy.

as long as your landy is 15 years old or more, RING footman james. when i was 17, i paid them £729 in my own name. I am now 21, and I paid £355, all mods declared. Ring them though...

That requires having intermittent wipers at all... :)

oOo how easy is that to do? Id quite like intermittent on mine, i wasnt aware it was an option til the TD5s +!

im pretty sure none of them have intermittend wipe... in terms of the switches, its a couple of screw to take the binnacle off, and then you can see them. If it is the fan switch that is stuck, its probably the cable that runs from the dash to the heater box which opens the 'air or no air'...

andy - look at wiltshire landymans previous experience... changing a clutch on a landy isn't hard, with a couple of mates about. Seriously!! £80 for the clutch, £20 to hire a crane, some anti freeze! My personal record, me an 2 mates, is 4 hours. This same fault, having read about it, is...

as above. The dealer isn't talking bollocks, however 300tdi's are known for having weak brake servo pumps. Change the pump, see if it helps. Buy a decent quality one.

could do, personally i have no experience of spacers but i know some people say they hammer wheel bearings/swivels. I don't know. I fitted some 8 spokes with a deeper offset, which brings the tyres to just in line with the edge of the rubber eyebrows, have noticed no difference in wear rates...

with tyres that wide it would make a good working vehicle, for driving across astro turf and bowling greens :D