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No, I dont want to know what it might be, because I am fairly sure I know what it is. My coolant header bottle is it seems quite correctly held on by one screw only, and it can rattle around on the mounting. First of all, is that correct (one screw only) and if so why is it rattling? does...

the knobs have skirts: get the blade behind them and twist hard. One of mine was stuck on and it took a LOT of twisting. If you use a bit of cardboard behind the knife and between the knife and the skirt you should not mark anything.

Electric motors almost never 'lose power' - there are a few occasions when magnet equipped ones get overloaded overheated and the magnets go - that can do it. But mostly they soldier on till the brushes go, and then they stop. That's tens to hundreds of hours RUNNING - how often do you wind the...

bad battery or bad terminals

Who on earth do you (a) Think you are? (b) Think I am? (c) Think this is? Your sense of entitlement will now net you no response at all.

Let me guess. You zeroed the trip and then reversed it 100 yards? :bounce:

There is a way to check fuel pressure: I dont know it. If it also feels down on power that (low fuel pressure/failing fuel pump) could be the problem.

Remember to depress brake pedal before fitting it.

I got a bit of humming on my TD4 at 70mph. Oddly enough a tank of fresh diesel fixed it. I suspect it was just the engine running very slightly rough on substandard fuel - and maybe some resonance with old bushes and so on.

low torque might be signs of bad fuel flow due to blocked filters or failing fuel pump. Keep an eye on it I have to say I would normally be in 4th at 30 on the auto hippo, using 'manual mode' 5th is just a bit too low for it.

Had a similar problem on a Peugeot 205GTI - wouldn't start hot and would stall below 3000 RPM when hot. Swapped water temp sensor and all OK. It was also very thirsty running in that mode. I cant tell from what docs I have how to get te sensor out, but its a two wire screwed in thing and...

I've just tried this on mine to see - a knife blade behind the knobs and they popped off. ten years of human fat and skin now removed.. (I assume it hasn't been driven by aliens..).

brake light switch is behind the pedal and its a total doddle to replace. Twist it anti clockwise, pull out and remove plug. When fitting new one first fit plug to it, then depress brake pedal, fit the switch and let the pedal come up: this sets the plunger on the ratchet so the lights come on...

...after you have skimmed the head....

That's a very common fault and one that needs fixing anyway. Normally the bearing vibration mounts are stiff enough to contain the VCU That needs fixing anyway - its not hard to drop the whole shaft and disconnect the VCU and carve the old bearings off with a grinder and fit new ones. Make...

I think you should get the codes read. Whatever is causing the LIGHT to come on, will leave an error code. It could be almost anything, and a guess is only that - a guess. I'd say a non critical sensor is going out of spec and especially so when cold, but that is a total flippin GUESS.

Rubbing sound at the front sounds like a brake related issue, but frankly I have no clear picture in my head as to what a flat tyre sounds like! :confused:

check fuses in main underbonnet fuse box. These are the BIG ones

Angle land

I thought low pressure fuel should be about 180-300psi??? And that you had already fitted a new fuel pump/filter?