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I BUILT my voltmeter out of a 1mA meter, a wooden case, some brass tube and some resistors. :D Frankly it was probably better than many of the chinese trash boxes you can buy today. I still favour an analogue meter where you can see the needle flicker compared with a digital that just rolls...

yeah. my other one had this problem. I fixed it very smply. I cut the connecctor off and stripped and tinned the wires and soldered them onto the PCB Because the only spare part I could find was the while wiring loom complete otherwise..

I had that with a failing fuel pump as well.

The Youth of today...sigh...when I were a lad all we had were t'voltmeter, t' circuit digram and common nous... If the lights are not working there is no computer gubbins involved. Just the switch and the fuse and some wires. if the fuse is intact, replace the brake switch: there is nothing...

How does your temperature gauge behave?

A stalled motor will always blow a fuse. No need for arcing. Looks like you simply had it jammed up. The scrapes on the armature outside are balancing stuff done in manufacture,., Ive visited a factory once that made motors. After winding they put the armature on a small version of a wheel...

Well you need a new brake switch for sure then.. If you are somewhere in E Anglia I can drop a reconditioned one off ;-) You may have other probs - ABS ones

If the brake lights actually work, the brake light switch is OK.

Pretty sure my older auto TD4 would redline before shifting up in sport mode 6000 is the limit I think, not too sure

I have to get the aircon regassed and the Man has a code reader..

Mm. That is what I suspected. The engine is running too cool Is that a thermostat change?

I know that: the question is: should it be running at all after 70 miles at 2 a.m?

So, where to start looking? It nearly always comes on

not sure the clutch is any different really. although access may be..

I am fairly sure the fuel rail pressure can be read with a a proper code reader

I seem to recall a thread about this somewhere. Split slave cylinder or something. And another reason for its failure - broken or bent bracket? Search the forum,

Mmm. I had another look at the vid and I reckon that was just how they balanced the armature. Probably not your problem. Check the brushes and the bearings and gear linkage Motors can and do sometimes short windings to earth for no apparent reason.

Er no. My manual specifically shows that they were not - they were optional extras or only on some models. My top of te range 2004 auto doesn't have this feature. Neither dies it have the 'you are exceeding 120kmh' light. And IIRC the facelift was in 2004, not 2001

OK. For some reason its an MP4 video that my browser thinks is Flash... What that shows me is that the motor has been robbing and is probably now stuck and wont spin so is drawing excessive current. Or oess its part of balancing the armature. Don't try and fix it - just get a new one Wiper...

I think you should accept that this is a feature of a car with a permanent 4WD with a VCU. Especially if its got different tyres on the back to those on the front